Bar Vint-i-Quatre: contemporary Barcelona in its purest form
Carles Abellán's latest venture revives the informal concept of Tapas 24 with a sort of evolved bar, and with the genius of placing it in the same premises, a space once occupied by the legendary José Luis.
The city of Barcelona was never a haven for tapas bars. If anything, there were a few in La Barceloneta, that coastal neighborhood that Barcelona turned its back on. There were also a few scattered throughout the outskirts, populated mostly by Spanish immigrants, and a handful in the upscale area, where the posh crowd gathered, like Mandri or Tejada.
The boom that Barcelona experienced before, during, and after the 1992 Olympics led to a proliferation of tapas bars and restaurants serving larger portions in upscale, central areas. In the 2000s, renowned chefs began to embrace the bar concept, and few did so as successfully as Carles Abellán, who opened the highly successful Tapas 24 in 2006.
With Bar Vint-i-Quatre, the Barcelona chef not only pays homage to his former casual establishment, but also revitalizes the corner of Diagonal Avenue and Tuset Street. Furthermore, he pays homage to his old bar, as Vint-i-Quatre means 24 in Catalan.
It cannot be denied that Vint-i-Quatre is from Barcelona
The clientele, the decor, and the overall atmosphere exude Barcelona spirit from every corner, with that cosmopolitan style and appreciation for beauty that the city proudly displays. Customers of all ages mingle, men and women alike, a mix of a bourgeois crowd and a relaxed, urban one, creating a microcosm that reflects the city itself.
The diners chat animatedly, without being loud or annoyingly boisterous. Their faces are smiling, perhaps because of the messages written on the walls and mirrors. One reads: “Excessive alcohol is harmful to your secrets,” prompting a wry smile from me at the irony.
Comfort food for many, home-cooked meals for others
I recognize myself in the main courses, and I know from a reliable source that it's comfort food for others. At Vint-i-Quatre, there's no bad dish. The worst thing I can say is that I like everything so much that it's hard to decide what to order.
I order roast chicken croquettes, which are so hard to find outside of Catalonia. These days, they're a bit of a contrarian croquette: the béchamel sauce is practically nonexistent, and the filling is substantial.
A Folgueroles flatbread with tomato and olive oil, served at the house's suggestion, is a must-try, and I end up eating it without hesitation. The "bikini" sandwich with Iberian ham, mozzarella, and truffle eventually disappears, even though it's a different version from the original ham and cheese sandwich popularized by the former Bikini club, now a nightclub.
The seasonal mushrooms with Calaf egg yolks are truly exceptional; those are exclusive farm eggs, very well-known in Catalonia. I think half the bar is enjoying that dish with beaming faces.
Baked artichokes from El Prat with Iberian ham and pine nut vinaigrette add a touch of green that is much appreciated at this point in the meal.
Just when all I can think about is the gym, the cannelloni arrive. Of course, I open my mouth, and not to complain. They're a must-try.
As I suppose are fricandó, the cardinal's macaroni made with fresh pasta and gratinated with Parmesan, or Grandma's meatballs with fresh tomato sauce and crispy potatoes. Trying them will have to wait for another time.
Carles' iconic strawberries and cream pull me out of my reverie and take me back to heaven.
At Bar Vint-i-Quatre there is an offer for every time of day
Vint-i-Quatre opens from 8:30 am with "esmorzars de forquilla" (delicious breakfasts eaten with a fork), continues with appetizers where classics such as anchovies, Donosti-style tortilla pincho, gildas, French oysters and a long list of dishes to whet the appetite are not lacking, and they serve lunches and dinners where the diner always leaves satisfied.
A good wine list (some from nearby areas that they bottle exclusively and 'label' with a permanent marker) and an appealing cocktail menu as a liquid offering.
A word of advice: don't go to the bathroom with headphones on, you'll miss out on a great smile…
Bar Twenty-Four
Diagonal Avenue, 520, 08006 Barcelona
T+34 938 58 93 29
Opening hours: Monday to Friday, from 8:30 a.m. to 12:00 a.m.; Saturdays and Sundays, from 9:00 a.m. to 12:00 a.m.
Follow them: @bar24barcelona
