A journalist's guide to a country where flavors are not just for the people, but about the people

Grapes from which wine is made

When discussing Georgian gastronomy, we cannot avoid wine, as we are talking about its birthplace. Thanks to the ideal temperate climate for grape growing, the country has been home to more than 500 indigenous grape varieties for 8,000 years. The Alazani Valley, located between the Caucasus ranges, is one of the centers of winemaking: here, the well-drained, mineral-rich soil and the altitude above sea level are responsible for the unique aroma of Georgian wines. In addition to these characteristics, winemaking traditions that have been passed down from generation to generation also play a major role, such as the use of kvervi. These large, conical clay pots sunk into the ground regulate the temperature during fermentation, lending their wines a special texture and complexity – it is no coincidence that the method was included in UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage List.

If you are lucky enough to visit a Supra, you will almost certainly find wine on the table alongside chacha (Georgian brandy), as it is much more than a simple agricultural product. It appears in religious traditions, hospitality and of course social life, while also providing one of the cornerstones of their culture. For red wine lovers, I heartily recommend the versions made from Saperavi grapes, while for those who want a refreshing white wine in the subtropical climate, Kisi is the perfect choice. And if we would like to just taste it first, we can do so at any time in the capital, for example at the 8000 Vintages bar.

Fresh dairy products

As soon as we leave the Georgian cities and head towards the countryside, cows grazing in impossibly green fields start to appear – they will then be on the sidewalks, next to the highways, and may even block our path between the mountains. Thanks to the literal free range, we can taste the most delicious yogurts and cheeses in the country. For example, the breakfast menu of most hotels includes fresh Imeruli, which is often used for baking, as well as semi-hard, intensely salty Sulguni cheese, which is also a main character in one of the country's most famous dishes, khachapuri. Caucasian kefir lives as an independent concept among people, but: matsoni, a fermented milk product, is more popular among Georgians, which is also on the table every morning, for example with honey and fruits.

Plums, in countless forms

While in Hungary plums are usually found in sweets, in Georgia they make a spicy-sour sauce – as they call it, tkemali – from it and serve it mostly with roasted meats. Of course, there are those who approach it a little differently: at the Salobie Bia restaurant in Tbilisi, for example, it makes a beetroot appetizer incredibly exciting and colorful, even though there are only a few ingredients on the plate. In fact, at the place recommended several times by Gault & Millau, they contradict my statement above seasonally, as they also make a white chocolate dessert from the sauce. Incidentally, the restaurant is located in the row of the Rustaveli Theater, where every square centimeter is saturated with art – be it ballet shoes on display, classical paintings or a few tactically placed mirrors.

When it is not being used to make tkemali, it is also used on its own, for example dried, as an accompaniment to meat main courses – my most pleasant gastronomic experience was related to just such a dish. At the Sisters apartment restaurant in Kutaisi – also recommended by Gault & Millau – the pomegranate-glazed chicken is made even more unique by the coriander-dried plum garnish.

And speaking of plums, it's worth mentioning one of the typical Georgian drinks, compote, which is roughly the equivalent of lemonade. I tasted the most delicious one at the aforementioned Sisters' sister restaurant, Cafe Dante in Tbilisi. Here I got a slightly tarter, refreshing, plum version, but almost every menu in the country features kiwi, grape, strawberry, or even apricot versions.

The indispensable green herb for most dishes

Throughout its history, Georgia has often served as a bridge between Europe, the Middle East and Asia, bringing with it a variety of spices and culinary traditions. Among these is coriander, which is particularly well-suited for cultivation in the temperate climate of many parts of the country. Given this, it is perhaps less surprising that it is found in everything – with the exception of desserts – and the aroma of coriander immediately fills the air at any Georgian table.

I ate it in salads, beef soup, khinkali and of course in lobio, which is the Georgian red bean stew. I tried this dish in the northeastern part of the country, in the small town of Kazbegi, at Samani, which operates with a surprisingly fresh, new-wave approach. The restaurant mixes traditional Georgian flavors and classic hospitality with a modern interior and youthful vigor. The lobio here came with lots of coriander, mchadi, or local cornbread, and fermented vegetables. Among the vegetables, a surprise was jonjoli, which is a pickle made from the unopened flower buds and shoots of the Caucasian hazel bush. With its slightly citrusy, slightly nutty aroma, it fits perfectly with the other characteristic ingredients of the cuisine.

Nuts, not just for decoration

Nuts are used in the cuisine of almost every country – but not as much as Georgians. For them, nuts are not just good for being chopped up and put on top of salads or used as a decorative element on plates, but rather as a dish in their own right. Historically, this can be traced back to the fact that in this society, those ingredients that could be stored for the winter months were of great value. Moreover, nuts have a high energy content, making them an important source of nutrients.

This is how such typical Georgian dishes as pkhali, a vegan appetizer made from vegetables and nuts, came about. But their garlic-nut sauce, satsivi, also deserves a mention, as it is served with chicken, but also stuffed with peppers. Finally, churchkhela should be included here, which everyone who has been to Georgia has surely encountered, as it hangs above the heads of vendors in all markets, and some shops even offer it at the airport. The sweet dipped in grape must and strung with nuts is so characteristic that it is now part of the country's official cultural heritage.

Unmissable tea leaves

They are a must-have, as when visiting Georgia, it is much easier to switch from coffee to tea for the duration of your trip – at least if you don’t want to start your day with an instant version. The soil and weather in the region are ideal for growing tea bushes, so they were introduced as early as the 17th century. And although they produce much less than they used to – partly due to wars and partly due to damage caused by the Soviet Union – they still produce 3,000 tons of tea a year, a considerable amount of which is consumed by the population. The mugs are often used during everyday receptions, but also as the final chord of traditional family dinners, the aforementioned supras. In such cases, black tea is served, usually with honey – also widely produced locally – and accompanied by fruits and nuts. In fact, in addition to tea leaves, they also like to steep wild mountain plants, such as mint or thyme.

I could go on and on about the ingredients, flavors, and more delicious dishes, as we haven't even mentioned pomegranate, chikhirtma soup made silky with eggs, and we've barely mentioned the justifiably popular khinkali. But this also perfectly characterizes Georgian cuisine: it's so diverse and exciting that it would be difficult to put it into a box - so it's worth going and experiencing it.