Spicy Arrabbiata-Style Cheese Straws Recipe

Being simple, cheddar-based crackers, cheese straws are the perfect canvas for experimenting with bold flavors, which I did in this recipe using arrabbiata sauce as inspiration. Traditionally seasoned with cayenne for a hint of spice, cheese straws are a natural match for the sharper heat of Calabrian chiles. Flaky, crumbly, and dotted with tangy bits of chile, these cheddar and Parmesan-filled cheese straws are the perfect balance of salt and heat. The result has all the richness and crunch of classic Southern cheese straws with a fiery Italian twist, and is perfect for serving as a snack alongside a crisp glass of wine.

Gathering the ingredients to make spicy arrabbiata-style cheese straws

You'll need the traditional base for cheese straws for this recipe, which includes butter, flour, and sharp cheddar. To soften the sharp flavor of the cheddar to match the Italian flavoring of arrabbiata, you'll also need mild cheddar and Parmesan. From there, you'll need tomato paste, salt, milk, and finely chopped Calabrian chiles, which you can buy pre-chopped in jars at the grocery store or you can chop them very finely yourself at home.

Step 1: Heat up the oven

Step 2: Beat the butter and cheese together

Beat the butter and the cheeses together with an electric hand mixer or the paddle attachment of a stand mixer until well combined.

Step 3: Mix in the tomato paste

Add the tomato paste and mix to combine.

Step 4: Incorporate the flour and salt

Add the flour and salt and continue beating until crumbly.

Step 5: Bring the dough together with milk

Add the milk 1 tablespoon at a time until the dough comes together into a smooth ball, using your hands to knead.

Step 6: Knead in the chiles

Add the chiles and knead until just combined.

Step 7: Roll out the dough

Roll the dough out on a floured surface until it's ⅛ inch thick. Form it into a square.

Step 8: Cut the dough into strips

Cut the dough into strips about ¼- to ½-inch wide.

Step 9: Twist into straws

Twist and arrange the straws on parchment-lined sheet trays.

Step 10: Bake until crispy

Step 11: Serve while still warm

Spicy Arrabbiata-Style Cheese Straws Recipe

Flaky, crumbly, and dotted with tangy bits of Calabrian chile, these cheddar and Parmesan-filled cheese straws are the perfect balance of salt and heat.

What are Calabrian chiles and what can I use if I can't find them?

Calabrian chiles are a small, spicy chile grown in the Calabria region of southern Italy. A favorite pepper of chefs like Bobby Flay and Giada De Laurentiis, the peppers have a lingering heat similar to a jalapeño but with a uniquely fruity and tangy flavor. They're usually jarred in oil rather than found in the produce section, so to find Calabrian chiles in your grocery store, look near the jarred and pickled peppers, or try the Italian section where pasta sauces and pestos are stored. If you aren't having any luck, try an Italian-specific market that specializes in products from overseas.

If you can't find Calabrian chiles at all, you can make this recipe with a few different options. The easiest swap would be crushed red chile flakes, which are spicy in a similarly warm way, though they don't have the same fruity notes as Calabrians do. For more tang, you can try using chopped and pickled hot cherry peppers, which can also often be found near the jarred and pickled peppers. If nothing else, you can always use cayenne, the traditional source of heat in Southern cheese straws.

Can I use mozzarella in cheese straws?

I originally developed this recipe to include mozzarella and provolone thinking that the mild and milky cheese would lend well to the straws' hot Italian flavor. I learned the hard way that cheese straws are made with cheddar for a reason, and it has a lot to do with the cheese's moisture content. Even low-moisture versions of mozzarella are higher in moisture than cheddar or Parmesan, and it's especially evident when baking with the cheeses. You'll notice mozzarella melts into a gooey texture that is best used for fillings, while cheddar and Parmesan crisp in the heat. This makes mozzarella hard to use in cheese straws — it changes the texture completely, and makes it nearly impossible for the dough to crisp.

Because cheese straws should be airy and crispy, not melty, you'll want to avoid moist cheeses like mozzarella and look instead for hard cheeses like cheddar. Cheddar isn't necessarily the only cheese you can use in cheese straws, but it's one of the best hard cheeses to use because it has both the correct amount of moisture and a robust, cheesy flavor. Using Parmesan alone would make these straws overly nutty and salty, while an aged Provolone might end up bland, so combining cheeses is the best way to maximize flavor.