A loaf of bread costs as much as a dinner: the new global gastronomic phenomenon

Is spending $60 for a kilo and a half of bread crazy? That's the price of the world's most expensive loaf, sold in New York at an Austrian bakery.

• In Manhattan, a 1.5-kilo loaf sold for $60 has sparked a debate about the cost of artisanal bread.
• Rye Bakery uses only organic rye, historic sourdough starter, and slow processes, with entirely manual production.
• The rent in the exclusive neighborhood and the management costs explain the price list, considered by many to be consistent with New York.

New York has a new record: the most expensive loaf of bread in the world. It's here, in luxurious Manhattan to be precise, that a kilo and a half of bread costs $60. The affair, as is to be expected, has sparked a wave of controversy, not only in the Big Apple, but also in Italy. At this point, a legitimate question arises: is this madness, yet another American exaggeration, or is the price "justified"?

The case of the $60 New York bread

Can you spend $60 (just over €52) on a 1.5-kilo loaf of bread? For many, absolutely not; even the thought of it is crazy. For others, yes, especially considering it's a quality product. Naturally, the case of the New York bakery has attracted worldwide curiosity, dividing public opinion.

Rye, a bakery located at 285 Lafayette Street in Manhattan, produces the world's most expensive loaf of bread. Owner Martin Auer, a baker of Austrian origins, opened his first American location with a very specific goal: "To give craftsmanship and bread the spotlight they deserve."

His bakery sells only one type of bread, made exclusively with 100% organic rye flour imported from Austria, a sourdough starter that the family has been guarding for 57 years, water, salt, and another essential ingredient, without which nothing would be born: time.

What is rye bread like in New York?

Even the sign, Rye, clearly shows that Martin Auer's bakery is different from the others. It sells only one type of bread, made with certified ingredients and exclusively by hand. The loaf is shaped by hand. It is round, shallow, and weighs about a kilo and a half. Its crust is not scored, so the surface remains flat and mottled brown and white. Its appearance and ingredients, however, are not its only distinguishing features.

We were saying that time is considered a fundamental ingredient, and we weren't kidding. Before being used to make bread, sourdough starter must be worked for a day. Then, the actual loaf is made, first kneaded and shaped, and finally left to mature naturally for about 24 hours.

Baking takes about 70 minutes, but after baking and before being sold, the bread must rest for at least 8 hours on wooden racks. In short, the preparation is time-consuming, but it allows the loaf to stay fresh and delicious for a week.

Is the price right?

Rye bread, made with certified organic flour and sourdough starter, is expensive even in Italy. Of course, we're referring to the fresh products sold in artisanal bakeries, not the "loafs" found in large retailers. It must be said, however, that in Italy we haven't yet reached the point of spending €52 for a 1.5-kilo loaf. We're stuck at around €20 at most.

But, returning to the Auer bakery, is the $60 price justified? Surely, at first glance, it's tempting to cry scandal, even madness, especially considering we're talking about the quintessential "social" food, the bread that has fed entire populations in the darkest moments.

However, a little digging is all it takes to realize that the price of a loaf of bread is in line with New York's standard of living. Let's do some math. Leaving aside the cost of raw materials, let's focus solely on the rent Auer has to shell out each month.

His bakery is located at 285 Lafayette Street, in one of the city's most exclusive neighborhoods, where rents are sky-high. To put this into perspective, a space of about 70-100 square meters costs between $22,000 and $30,000 a month, approximately €19,800-27,000. To this figure, you must add the ancillary costs associated with the Triple Net (NNN) contracts that are in force in the Big Apple, which provide for coverage of a portion of the building's property taxes and maintenance costs.

In short, doing a quick calculation, with a loaf of bread selling for $60, Auer must bake and sell around 400-500 loaves a month just to cover the cost of the walls. Returning to the initial question, is the price justified? In our opinion, absolutely, and everyone is free to buy what they prefer.