A Color-Soaked Import Brings an Indian Street Foods Party to D.C.
Chai Pani in Union Market is D.C.’s first introduction to a beloved Indian restaurant that got its start in Asheville, N.C. (and has a longtime presence in Georgia as well).
What to order
- Go with the restaurant’s take on an Indo-Chinese classic, Chilli Chicken ($18): the battered dish has a pulsing, though not overwhelming, heat to it.
- It’s easy to construct an entire meal around the restaurant’s extensive vegetarian options. One of the highlights is their peppy and complex version of paneer tikka ($25), with a grilled smokiness and hints of chile and fenugreek.
- Round out your meal with at least one chaat for the table — I like the kale pakora-esque version ($15) that gets color and personality from pomegranate and green mango powder — as well as a bowl of their homey daal makhani ($18), which was my group’s MVP dish.
The look
Floral, festive, and almost overwhelming: red vinyl booths, Indian artwork, showers of fuchsia-colored flowers, and rings of marigolds (including an impressive sculpture in the lobby invoking a hot air balloon) all add up to a pleasant cacophony. The extensive retail stand in front gives the restaurant more of a chain-y vibe than you might expect from a brand with only three locations.
Insider tip
Service was a little chaotic on a busy Friday evening; dishes come out when they are ready, whether they seem priced as more of a snack or as a main (one item we were waiting on never appeared, so we ultimately got it to-go). Portion sizes seemed fairly similar, regardless of where something appeared on the menu, so try not to overthink it and just enjoy the food as it comes.
