Salsify: what it is, what it tastes like, and how to use it in cooking

There's also a minor point of confusion that should be clarified from the outset. Salsify and black salsify are not exactly the same. True salsify is Tragopogon porrifolius, while the so-called black salsify or scorzonera is a different species, long known as Scorzonera hispanica and now accepted by Kew as Pseudopodospermum hispanicum. Both belong to the Asteraceae family and their roots have similar culinary uses, but botanically they are distinct plants.

In the kitchen, it deserves more attention than it receives. Its flavor is often compared to that of artichoke and celeriac, with a mild, vegetal, and slightly sweet note. In English-speaking countries, it's even known as oyster plant, although that doesn't mean it literally tastes like shellfish.

Furthermore, it lends itself to many cooking methods. It can be boiled, steamed, roasted, sautéed, blended into creams or purées, and added to soups and stews. The only serious drawback appears before it even reaches the heat: you need to know how to clean it because it can release a rather sticky latex, and once peeled, the flesh tends to darken.

What exactly is salsify?

White salsify, or common salsify, is the edible root of Tragopogon porrifolius. It is a biennial plant of the Asteraceae family whose native range extends from the Canary Islands and the Mediterranean region to the Arabian Peninsula. Spain is part of this natural distribution.

During its first year, the plant develops a long, narrow taproot, which is precisely the part used as a vegetable. If it continues to grow, it produces striking pinkish-purple flowers in its second year. The Royal Horticultural Society also notes that the young shoots, flower buds, and even petals can be edible, although the root is the part typically found in a fruit and vegetable shop.

It is primarily a cold-weather vegetable. It can be harvested from mid-autumn and remain in the ground throughout the winter until early spring. The cold can even make the root somewhat sweeter and more tender.

White salsify and black salsify: what's the difference

Here is one of the points that causes the most confusion.

The white salsify, Tragopogon porrifolius, develops a long, relatively light-colored root with whitish flesh inside.

Black salsify, also called scorzonera, has a much darker skin. The name Scorzonera hispanica is still widely used in cooking and horticulture, although the botanical classification currently accepted by Kew considers it a synonym of Pseudopodospermum hispanicum.

Don't get too hung up on the differences when cooking. The culinary treatments are very similar: clean, cook the root until tender, and then use it whole, chopped, pureed, or as a side dish.

However, if we find a root that is almost black and somewhat earthy, it doesn't necessarily mean the salsify has spoiled. It's probably black salsify.

What does salsify taste like?

Defining its flavor solely as "similar to oyster" is misleading. That historical comparison explains some of its English names, but the vegetal profile is much more evident.

A far more helpful description would place it somewhere between artichoke, celeriac, and other soft roots, with a slightly sweet and earthy undertone. Good Food describes it precisely as a combination of artichoke and celeriac.

The texture depends a lot on the cooking time. When cooked properly, it's tender but retains some structure. If cooked too long, it can become a soft, somewhat stringy mass, so it's best not to leave it in a boiling pot.

It is precisely this softness that allows it to be used in very different ways, from a simple side dish to a vegetable puree.

How to choose a good salsify

If we're lucky enough to find it fresh, we should look for firm roots, without soft spots or significant damage. Since they're long and relatively thin, they can break easily, so it's not unusual to find a small cut.

Roots that are too flexible or dry have lost some of their freshness.

If the leaves are still attached, they can also help us assess its condition. In any case, salsify is a much less common vegetable in our shops than potatoes, leeks, or carrots, so it's easier to find it in specialty greengrocers, markets, or stores that carry less common vegetables.

How to clean and prepare salsify

Here is the most particular part of the process.

The first thing to do is wash and brush the root very well, because it may have quite a bit of dirt attached. From there we have two options.

One option is to peel it raw. When you do this, you'll see that it may release a sticky, white sap or latex. This isn't a problem for cooking, but it can be quite messy on your hands, knife, or peeler.

Furthermore, the flesh begins to darken after peeling. To prevent this, you can prepare a bowl of water with a little lemon juice and place the pieces in it as you peel them. Good Food specifically recommends keeping freshly peeled salsify in lemon water to reduce this browning.

We can also use water slightly acidified with vinegar.

The second option is probably the most convenient: first, cook the thoroughly cleaned root and then peel it. The Royal Horticultural Society recommends this method precisely because it avoids much of the mess caused by the latex of the raw root.

Therefore, there is no single correct way. If we want very clean and uniform pieces from the start, we can peel them raw and immediately put them in lemon water. If we want to simplify things, we can cook them with the skin on and peel them afterward.

How to cook salsify

Once the initial preparation is complete, it's a very forgiving vegetable. We can treat it similarly to other root vegetables and adjust the cooking time to suit the dish we're preparing.

Boiled or steamed

It's probably the easiest way to try it for the first time.

We can cook the roots whole or cut up until a knife goes in easily but the flesh doesn't fall apart. We can also steam them.

Then simply add a little butter, salt, and a few drops of lemon juice. In fact, the RHS suggests steaming it and serving it this way to better appreciate its flavor.

Roast

Salsify also works particularly well inside oven-roasted vegetables.

We can cut it into pieces, add a little oil, and roast it until tender and starting to brown. The oven concentrates its flavor and gives it a slightly caramelized surface that's especially good. Good Food also includes roasting among its regular dishes.

Sautéed

Another possibility is to pre-cook it for a few minutes and finish it with a quick stir-fry.

This way we get a tender root in the center, but with a bit more color on the outside. Butter works especially well, although we can also use oil.

In purees and creams

If we want a completely different texture, we can blend it.

Cooked salsify is excellent for making smooth and creamy purées, either on its own or mixed with other vegetables. It can be used in the same way as other root vegetables, adjusting the amount of liquid afterward to achieve the desired consistency.

It also fits perfectly into the realm of broths, creams and purees.

In soups and stews

We can dice or slice salsify and add it to soups, stews, and vegetable casseroles. The RHS and Good Food explicitly include these uses among the common ways to cook it.

In these cases, it is advisable to incorporate it, carefully calculating the time so that it does not end up completely ruined.

Gratin

Another very welcome option is to pre-cook it, place it in a dish, add a sauce or a small amount of cheese and finish it under the grill.

We can use a similar technique to that of other gratinéed vegetables, such as these oven-baked white asparagus gratins.

What ingredients does it combine well with?

Salsify has a mild enough flavor to accommodate very different accompaniments, but it doesn't need too many ingredients to work.

Butter is probably one of its simplest accompaniments. Lemon and garlic also go well with it, especially when roasted or sautéed. Good Food specifically recommends oil, herbs, and garlic for oven-baked preparations.

Its earthy character also goes very well with mushrooms, while its texture allows it to be used as a garnish for meats or fish without being heavy.

And there's another interesting combination: white asparagus. Not because they taste the same, but because both lend themselves to simple preparations based on careful cooking, butter, mild sauces, or gratins.

How to preserve salsify

A fresh root keeps best without peeling or cutting it. The most practical thing to do is to keep it in the refrigerator and eat it before it starts to soften.

Good Food recommends keeping salsify refrigerated in a sealed container and using it within approximately one week of purchase.

Once peeled, it's best not to leave it exposed to air, as it darkens quickly. If you're not going to cook it right away, keep it temporarily in lemon water.

Is it worth trying?

Yes, especially if we like root vegetables and want to get away from the usual options.

Salsify doesn't have a strong flavor and doesn't require complicated preparation. Its main difficulty lies in cleaning and handling the root correctly, not in cooking it. Once that step is mastered, it can be used practically like any other winter vegetable.

The best first attempt is probably also the simplest: boil or steam it, peel it, and serve it with butter and a few drops of lemon juice. From there, you can move on to baking, sautéing, using it in soups, or as a side dish.

And although the appearance of those long, earthy and not very photogenic roots may put you off, here the opposite of what is usual happens: salsify is much more interesting on the plate than in the fruit shop.