Trattoria on Via Serra in Bologna, a review: great cuisine at the service of tradition

If it were right in the city center, perhaps it would be explained, but not even that, because it's outside the city walls, just steps from the central station, in an area that's starting to attract more and more locals, thanks in part to the presence of this trattoria, which has led the way. It would be a marketing mystery to unravel if it weren't for the fact that everyone knows the secret (spoiler alert): the food is good. In reality, the food isn't just good, because despite the detractors, there are still places in Bologna with good food, but you can count on an offering that's never boring, and you'll feel pampered from start to finish without it impacting the bill.

The restaurant comprises several small rooms, a layout that contributes to a sense of intimacy, with light colors complemented by the customary red and white checked tablecloths and large sheets of yellow paper. The wine list boasts just over twenty local labels, ranging from as far as Piacenza, carefully selected and with standard markups. Bulk wine is also available, and never disappoints. In the kitchen, great attention is paid to the ingredients, selected directly by the two partners Flavio and Tommaso, with a focus on small producers from the Slow Food Presidia network.

It's the details that make the difference, and sometimes even the substance, like the first appetizer on the menu, which reads "Tosone di Bianca Modenese wrapped in pancetta and roasted in the oven." Flavio in the dining room is already there, and he's generous with explanations. Tosone is nothing more than the trimming of fresh Parmesan cheese wheels, resulting in large strips of very white, still pliable cheese. These no longer exist because the moulds used to make Parmesan are very precise, but when they were made of wood, this operation was essential to obtaining a smooth, even shape. Just to underline tradition, they are made from the milk of Bianca Modenese cows, a breed of cow that was once highly prized for its suitability for milking, working, and finally, for meat. Today, however, it is almost a rarity, replaced by better-performing breeds in various sectors. It goes without saying that its milk is decidedly more suitable for making the king of cheeses than that of the more common Friesian. These "scraps" were used in cooking as fresh cheese, and this custom has been revived by the trattoria on Via Serra, which covers them in pancetta and bakes them. The whole explanation would be meaningless if the result wasn't excellent. Guess what...

The ricotta and artichoke flan on a cream of pecorino di fossa cheese is also very light and tasty, but a couple of off-menu items are also definitely worth trying: the liver pâté with warm brioche bread and the crescentine in baked tigelle with cooked pesto, parmesan, and balsamic vinegar, a reinterpretation of the classic Modena crescentine (also on the menu, not to be missed) which are grilled (or more) and seasoned with the classic aromatic and very sweet "concia" made with lard, pancetta, garlic, and rosemary, which is usually used raw to spread inside the crescentine accompanied by parmesan (the closest thing to Nutella for the people of Modena).

Among the first courses you definitely have to try are the tortellini in capon broth, soft and fragrant with prosciutto and parmesan, served with an excellent broth, among the best you'll find in Bologna, and the fantastic tortelloni with butter and sage, filled with a wonderful ricotta (also made with Bianca Modenese ricotta). If you're looking for a first course with a vegetarian sauce, there's the surprising chestnut flour cordonetti (basically thick spaghetti) with porcini mushrooms. As for second courses, you're spoiled for choice: the melt-in-your-mouth braised beef cheek, the porcini mushroom meatballs—a refined version of the classic meatballs in tomato sauce—and, my favorite, the crescentine in tigelle with semi-whole wheat flour, cured meats, squacquerone cheese, and pesto, best eaten piping hot, just like they used to be.

To conclude, we're tempted by the classic zuppa inglese, which is definitely at the top of the Bolognese top ten (what the heck am I telling you?); a super-soft caprese with intense notes of bitter cocoa; and finally, a phenomenal salted caramel ricotta cake, a sort of cheesecake without the biscuit base, sweet and creamy with a rich, fresh-milk flavor.

The trattoria on Via Serra is a classic place I recommend when visiting the city, even to Bolognese people who haven't yet discovered it—but their numbers are increasingly rare—both for the attention to detail and quality of the food and for the warm welcome from Flavio, who is the perfect host.

Opinion

Without a doubt, one of the best restaurants in Bologna, offering solid, authentic tradition without ever falling into banality. Carefully crafted dishes reveal a masterful chef, and a welcoming dining room where you truly feel at home.

PRO

• Some dishes, such as tortellini and zuppa inglese, are among the best found in the city.
• welcoming atmosphere and perfect service

AGAINST

• Reservations by phone or online are virtually impossible.