Trattoria Gianni in Bologna, a review from the dead-end “Quadrilatero”

The interiors, all vaults and low arches with thick walls, betray the structure of the medieval service rooms, unfortunately hidden under a thick coat of plaster and a cladding of modern bricks that runs along the half-height walls like wainscoting.

The menu is all in strict Bolognese orthodoxy with very few deviations, such as the lardo di patanegra served with warm crostini, which we decide to order, along with the mortadella mousse and the slice of grilled mortadella with balsamic vinegar.

Overall, none of the appetizers are entirely convincing, but for different reasons: the lard is excellent, but it's served too cold, and the toasted bread isn't warm enough to melt, which is a shame because it really would have been enough. The mortadella mousse, on the other hand, has too much cream, making it heavy and dulling the cured meat's aromas, which should be prominent alongside the Parmesan. Finally, the grilled mortadella is excessively thin and barely grilled, while there's even too much balsamic vinegar. Speaking of grilled mortadella: if you've never tried it, do it. It's best grilled over charcoal, but it's also delicious on a grill—you won't regret it.

For starters, good tortellini in a more than decent broth are definitely a better choice, and they also hold up well with a cream of Parmesan cheese. Unlike other restaurants where the cream is a sort of savory zabaglione, here it's simply cream with a generous amount of Parmesan cheese, and the result is truly delicious, although it can feel a bit heavy by the end of the course.

The truly convincing part comes with the main course, with a wonderful cotoletta alla Bolognese, as they used to be made in the olden days and are increasingly rare nowadays. Let me explain: many today interpret the cotoletta alla Bolognese as a Milanese cutlet on the bone, layered with prosciutto and parmesan, but in reality the cotoletta alla Bolognese has always been handleless and much thinner than the breaded Florentine steaks you see around (which, mind you, are delicious, at least in my opinion). Others, perhaps too many, are stuck in the 1980s and still add a few spoonfuls of cream to make the cheese creamier (not that there's anything wrong with that, as long as you use a little moderation), while Gianni's is truly the cotoletta "à la vécia Bulàgna"—thin, well-breaded, soft, with an extremely balanced flavor, almost delicate, if one can use that term for one of the most assertive preparations in Emilian cuisine. It's a shame that neither the roast potatoes nor the mashed potatoes are up to par, while such a dish would have deserved a more respectable accompaniment.

The liver in Marsala wine with raisins and pine nuts, listed on the blackboard as off-menu, and the soft and juicy baked ham are also highly recommended, but the absolute highlight is the boiled meat, served in generous portions with the traditional cuts: priest's hat, head, cotechino, meatloaf, tongue, and chicken. In my opinion, the only thing missing is the "milk," or cow's udder, but I'm a nostalgic pain in the ass and no one listens to me anymore, so why should I tell you? The dish is served with a delicious sweet and balanced friggione, salsa verde, and a traditional fruit mostarda. It may not be the best boiled meat selection, but a dish like this makes you miss it.

Even for dessert, we go classic with the ever-present zuppa inglese in the "tile" format, a more compact version made in a plumcake mold, dominated by ladyfingers generously soaked in alchermes, while the delicious creams would have needed a little more room. The vanilla ice cream is delicious, served in two versions: with black cherries in syrup (also known as "Domenica") and with balsamic vinegar drizzled over it, a style best found in other restaurants in the city.

Opinion

Trattoria Gianni is a historic establishment boasting some excellent traditional Bolognese dishes, particularly its meat-based main courses. It undoubtedly represents a piece of culinary history, and its central location for nearly seventy years is testament to that. It would take very little to bring the restaurant back to the heights it deserves, which are instead met by the price, which is on par with many other restaurants in the city.

PRO

• The cutlet is excellent in true "old style" like few others you see
• Mixed boiled meats recommended

AGAINST

• the starters and side dishes could be more carefully prepared
• the bill is comparable to many other restaurants in the center