Salvo's Pizzeria on the Riviera di Chiaja in Naples: A Review

Another shake-up came in 2010. Ciro left San Giorgio and the family pizzeria to join Massè in Torre del Greco. Since then, his journey as a solo entrepreneur has never stopped: Ciro now runs three locations: 50 Kalò, 50 panino (a gourmet hamburger restaurant), and a small, charming accommodation, 50 suite B&B.

Francesco and Salvatore continued their adventure together, with the acclaim of critics and the public, and in 2018 they arrived in the Riviera di Chiaja, opening a second location in Naples.

Menu, pizzas, atmosphere, service and prices

When we visited, the pizzeria's attractive entrance was a bit obscured by tape: parking isn't supposed to be on this side of the sidewalk. There were cars anyway, and we began to suspect unspecified construction work was underway. That doubt was dispelled: let's go in!

The place is large, welcoming, bright, and well-finished. The only real shame is that the synthetic leather chairs are all badly damaged: in such an elegant setting, the sense of neglect is even more striking.

The graphics on the paper placemats and menus, which are also recurring on the beautiful ceramic plates (all of which, providentially, are free of any chips), are captivating.

Oddly enough, at the table (and we're just starting to serve), we find a glass of water and two other glasses that aren't exactly clean. The prompt service immediately makes substitutions. We continue with a small flurry of "nothings" from the menu: there's no glass of Ferrari rosé for the "Fried & Sparkling" option (and in truth, in many visits, it's been a rare pleasure to find one), there's no fried cod, there's no variation of montanarine, and you can't have a single classic montanarine. Then, after a series of politely communicated false starts, we get off to a flying start.

The series of unfortunate events we suffered earned us a single montarina on the sly: tall, soft, delicious, perhaps just a little too oily, but we can forgive it for that.

The pasta and potato frittata is delicious, even if a little too greasy, but the white arancini are to die for: unbreaded, they're incredibly crispy on the outside and melt-in-the-mouth on the inside, topped with mountain butter, Pecorino Romano DOP, and stringy smoked provola. Well done, Salvo Bros!

The pizza selection is complex: there are so many interesting options. The Margherita alone offers seven variations.

It's impossible to resist the Margherita Pop with Kuoko Mercante's Pomopop, Mario Avallone, buffalo burrata cheese, and Roboris extra virgin olive oil. It's a real treat that each Margherita version comes with its own selected oil: a testament to Francesco and Salvatore's gastronomic and sensory research.

The result is remarkable: the Pomopop is excellent, rounded, and fresh, and the shredded burrata is finally not a redundant monster that smells of food porn. Visually inviting, it's simply luxurious on the palate. A blessed €9, not at all excessive for a pizza that's not a regular Margherita.

The seasonal Sunday artichoke is a must-try. There was truly an embarrassment of choice, especially the mini "Pizze dal Mare" menu featuring seafood and other dishes. Unfortunately, there were also some shortages on the pizza menu. The restaurant manager explained: overbooking during the recent Liberation Day long weekend meant many ingredients were sold out, and some could not be replenished.

Very elegant in form, this pizza might seem like a tribute to the Neapolitan tradition of grilled artichokes. Of course, this is its more refined cousin, without the suffocating smoke of authentic street food crowds. It's first cooked at a low temperature, then grilled and flavored.

The Caserta guanciale is very flavorful, not salty or overly fatty; the parsley sauce enhances all the ingredients and makes the pizza visually almost poetic. Less convincing is the dough, which isn't up to par with this impeccable topping: not flawless, but not exciting, and the crust is a bit saggy. The balance isn't compromised, however.

Drinks and wine menu, desserts, accessibility and bill

The beverage selection is impressive: several beers on tap, glasses of Ferrari (or rather, the glass, given the rosé's tendency to evaporate!), a lemonade and a chinotto, in addition to the usual soft drinks. The wine list, which can be consulted via QR code, is impressive. Prices are reasonable.

The dessert menu is entirely dominated by the inevitable Salvatore Capparelli: you'll always see him. In addition to the classic babà, always special, the Sette Veli is delicious.

Accessibility is poor: the lovely dedicated bathroom (shared with a nursery) has a rather heavy door to move, but the steps at the entrance make access very difficult (if not prohibitive) for those with mobility difficulties.

A balanced bill, ours is a bit steep for the two glasses of Ferrari and the large draft beer. It would be nice to never see a pre-bill again. Let's all ask Santa Claus for one for December 25th!

Opinion

Francesco and Salvatore Salvo confirm their excellent product selection. Their research extends to their olive oils, leaving nothing to chance. The elegant and welcoming dining room deserves some well-appointed furnishings. The extensive yet well-curated menu demonstrates versatility and culture. A few tweaks could elevate Pizzeria Salvo even further.

PRO

• Interesting, sophisticated toppings with excellent products.
• Friendly service
• Affiliated parking
• Possibility of booking through the website in a simple and intuitive way.