ImpasTO, the Turin pizzeria that wanted to amaze us: review

ImpasTO is a pizzeria in Turin, which first and foremost complies with the pun quota requirement: this is an unwritten law, in force in the Savoy capital, and also valid in Milan, requiring a significant percentage of establishments, or events, to be named with a pun involving the province's acronym: CioccolaTO, GusTO, MangiaMI… An attempt to impress, but a predictable one, a slightly hackneyed bu

ImpasTO, environment, service and menu

ImpasTO is located on Corso Moncalieri, in an ambiguous area where the city on one side unravels into the suburbs, while on the other opens up to the green promise of the foothills. The place is small—between thirty and forty seats—but well-organized, perhaps just a little compressed during the busiest times. Service is fairly quick, or friendly when it can't be: we were advised not to have the pizzas delivered one at a time, as we would have preferred for a better experience, because there are two tables and the dinner could last hours.

The pizzeria describes itself as "Gourmet Neapolitan pizzas with 48-hour leavening, representing creativity, originality, and quality: all hallmarks of Italian cuisine." Naivety aside, this is a misleading description. ImpasTO's menu includes four appetizers, 24 pizzas, and three focaccias. There's also an off-menu option, and for each pizza, there's also a pan-fried pizza option (so as not to disappoint lovers of local tradition, and in fact, farinata is among the few appetizers available).

As you can see, however, the substance of the toppings is neither classic Neapolitan nor classic gourmet: once the three versions of Margherita have been paid tribute, the result is an attempt to surprise with unusual pairings, but without resorting to the weapon of deluxe ingredients; more on the side of home-style baroque than fine dining. Which isn't a bad thing, in fact. Another plus is the not uncommon frequency of bases that elude the tomato/mozzarella alternative. Despite the name, however, nothing special is said, or even hinted at, about the dough.

ImpasTO pizzas

ImpasTO pizzas are, it must be said, incredibly satisfying, especially when it comes to the toppings: generous, well-arranged, perfectly executed, and delicious. And this even when, in theory, they might seem a bit too much.

The BBQ with grilled sausage, confit cherry tomatoes, and caramelized onion is amazing in its simplicity. Ditto for the Neapolitan Margherita, with the addition of Parmesan cheese, as is sometimes customary in Naples. The Chicca isn't exactly groundbreaking either (creamed zucchini, mozzarella, and ham), but it's beautifully executed, especially the cream, which is so easy to dry out, but it isn't. The Burrata in carrozza, on the other hand, is a rococo triumph: on a base of onion jam (azz), speck (bang), and roasted potato cream (boooom), sits what looks like fried ice cream from the Chinese restaurant on the corner, but is actually a whole burrata, in carrozza, breaded and fried. Kitsch? Absolutely (the plain burrata in the center of the pizza is already kitsch, and now it's even stale). Delicious? Even better: unsurpassed pork chops.

The weak point, even here in practice, is ImpasTO's dough (sorry, you were asking for it): a sophisticated Neapolitan pizza, but nothing special when you bite into it; and sometimes a little too burnt on the edge, a little undercooked at the center (which is even more evident in the pan-fried version).

Opinion

A modern Neapolitan-style pizza with creative, honest, and delicious toppings. Aside from a few glitches and imperfections, this place deserves a mention, if only because it stands out from the crowd.