Vico in Rome, review: Enzo Coccia's pizza

Just a few months ago, we felt that Enzo Coccia, the founding father of modern pizza, was being talked about far too little. But like all true fantasists, Vincenzo Coccia (ViCo) managed to surprise us.

We will have to call upon all our rigid impartiality and our untamed spirit as Miss Rottermaier, to be objective and not give in to facile enthusiasm.

Historic building, ultra-luxury finishes, yet understated and elegant (let's just say there are no psychedelic dreams or excesses of apotropaic croissants here), a cellar worthy of applause and a top-notch mixologist and, last but not least, Coccia, a terrific pizza.

There would be all the elements to lose our bearings and cry out for a miracle, but you know: Rome makes us particularly nervous!

A few weeks after opening, we dare ask: what will Enzo Coccia's Vico Pizza & Wine be like?

Vico Pizza & Wine, ambiance, menu, and beverage selection

Born from the wonderful union between the dean of gourmet pizza makers and the De Angelis family (hospitality sector), ViCo Pizza & Wine shows a different approach right from the entrance. The noble 16th-century building overlooks the discreet and central Piazza Rondanini: we are just steps from the Pantheon and the Senate. The sign is minimal, as is the entrance. And, after all, it's fair to say that in this area there are more conservation restrictions than cobblestones.

A palace as sober as it is impressive: it was built by none other than Cardinal Thomas Wolsey. We're in the midst of the Anglican schism, not exactly a simple matter.

Oh, right, pizza. Phew, we were one step away from getting caught up in Alessandro Barbero's drift and mentioning the Cognac League (no, it's not a consortium for the protection of).

Once you cross the essential threshold, the surprises never end: the works directed by architect Roberto Antobenedetto are a hymn to joy, to Partenope, to restoration and elegance.

Yes, we'll stop later, but consider whether this is just another ordinary pizzeria. We don't want to be persecutory—but then again, why not? It's fun!—but here you certainly won't find themed rooms with birds, Capodimonte roses, and croissants like on Via Veneto.

The menu is temporary (we're still in the very early weeks of this charming old Bourbon creation's opening) but it's already giving clear signs of something special. Appetizers, Enzo's Ideas, Traditional Pizzas, Desserts, and a neat QR code—even here, it doesn't leave us feeling happy!—even with the impressive and overbearing beverage selection.

Let's get this out of the way as the prices are quite steep.

Yes, but the costs, yes, but the context, yes, the experience (the experience?! Damn, the experience!) and the raw materials and Coccia's hand and even the secessionist Cardinal without cancellation.

Whatever you want, or rather, whatever the De Angelis family wants. We're in the same league as Piero Fassino, who's waving around a 5k salary, saying it's not that much. He's right, everyone's right (quote). But, by the way, you have to be a bit wary of pizzas that cost between 22 and 27 euros. A pendulum swinging between inflation and gentrification, I think Schneider was saying about ViCo's menu! This would open up some interesting considerations that would make us even more drooling, and we're already hungry. So let's open a line of credit and go!

Enzo Coccia's pizzas and fried foods at ViCo Pizza&Wine

Delicious, spicy cocktails accompany the roll, a classic Coccian favorite: a narrow cylinder of dough filled with high-quality ingredients, today ricotta and parmigiana. Let's go! Actually, forgive us, there, there.

The characteristics of the Margherita with provola and pepper are the epitome of the pizza at PizzAria in Naples (or rather, the PizzArie on Via Caravaggio, now left to his sons Andrea and Marco: Enzo will dedicate himself, at least for now, to his Roman Holiday). And if throngs of pizza makers and pizza lovers have always included the air and water of Naples among the essential ingredients of pizza, well, perhaps Coccia has a few bottles of it. Let's just say that ViCo's pizza is a throwback to La Notizia's best performances, those of ten or fifteen years ago.

Margherita provola e pepe (€18, yes, €18!!!!), impeccable: the peppery kick and the smoky flavor of the buffalo provola are interesting, while the San Marzano cheese is almost perfect. The oil comes from the Sorrento peninsula. The crust is Coccia's proverbial signature: we'll take exception to a slight irregularity in the crust, but only to demonstrate our austere impartiality.

Pantheon (€21) deserves a standing ovation. The dish is perfect, in our opinion. The minced meat (personally selected by Enzo from a small butcher in Lazio) is almost melt-in-the-mouth. Its flavor is punchy. The Pecorino Romano DOP and the pacchetelle tomatoes round it off beautifully.

But if we can indulge in sentimentality, it's Enzo Coccia's Piscitiello ciurillo that moves us. A fried calzoncino with zucchini flowers, delicious enough to bring crocodile tears to your eyes (and to be seen by a nutritionist soon), which represents—along with the wine list featuring over 130 wines—the most successful of exorcisms. Enzo and his Sfizio deserved better, now they've been vindicated. Per aspera ad palazzi aristocrati.

Desserts, service, and bill from Vico Pizza & Wine

Since his second PizzAria, Coccia had focused on service, having it coordinated by professionals with Michelin-starred credentials. Here, they're aiming for more. But without exaggeration. The maître d' and assistant are top-notch with international experience: it shows. The mixologists and servers are smiling and professional. Even when making a reservation by phone, the pleasantness is cut with a breadstick. Not affectation, but true savoir faire.

The desserts are also high-profile, entrusted to Andrea Cappella, under the direction and direction of maître patissier Ciro Chiummo. Chiummo, whose name betrays certain Austro-Hungarian or Bavarian origins, despite the Neapolitan meaning "grave" (meaning "grave" or "heavier" in Italian), has created light desserts for Enzo Coccia, playful in appearance and complex in flavor.

If the babà with Caprese crumble is excellent, the playful ladybug manifesto from ViCo Pizza & Wine is as beautiful as it is satisfying. Balanced and not cloying. The Torcolato suggested for the pairing is a testament to its elegance.

What luck! The rattan armchairs, incredibly comfortable and chic, are also beautifully sturdy. The pain hits hard: €121. Of course, we didn't skimp on the two glasses of Franciacorta and the two desserts. But personally, we breathe a sigh of relief: our spotless gentleman pays, and now, without a single penny left!

So dear to me was this Enzo Coccia, who came to Rome to dominate it from so many points of view!

Opinion

Enzo Coccia's arrival in Rome, in partnership with the De Angelis family, a leader in high-end hospitality, is an oasis of elegance and allure. Excellent pizzas and exciting fried dishes, made even more enjoyable by an unparalleled setting. High-class service, visually original, playful, and delicious desserts. A competitive wine list.