Ostaia a Ribotta, review: the tavern of missed opportunities

If, at least in lexical intent, the Östaia a Ribotta in Genoa would like to evoke a cheerful revelry (the ribotta, precisely), in practice – after two careful visits – the melancholic nickname of Osteria delle occasioni perdute seems more fitting.

It is in fact this wasted potential, rather than the epicurean revelry, that traces the common thread of a place that, despite having all the credentials to excel, instead seems to settle for a tired sufficiency.

Missed opportunity #1: glycinicide

While the interior rooms are elegant and welcoming, thanks to a successful juxtaposition of rustic furnishings and industrial elements, Östaia's added value (its hallmark, we might say) is the vast roof garden topped by an enormous, lush wisteria. A stunning natural-metropolitan miracle—we're in the heart of the city, right above the bustling Piazza Portello—it would offer about fifty patrons the rare and romantic opportunity to be enveloped in a green embrace amidst the grey, asphalt-covered city, if only... a giant polyethylene awning hadn't been draped between the tables and the pergola ("leaves were falling," was the laconic explanation to our complaints).

So, of the leafy emerald mantle, now only a few unruly lateral shoots remain, a large shadow to glimpse and a memory to regret.

Missed Opportunity #2: The Sun King's Cellar

The cellar follows the same path as the garden: enormous potential, disconcerting execution. Indeed, there is no written record of over a thousand labels. So, after explaining that there are "too many" wines to be confined to a list, the waiter asserts, in a Louis XIV-esque way: "I am the wine list."

Very good. But this choice is not without risks because, especially with a well-stocked wine cellar, the time taken away from writing (let's be poetic, since software would suffice) should instead be spent assessing the customer, capturing their tastes, learning about the dishes they're ordering, informing, suggesting, proposing, and guiding. And, no less important, listing prices, a significant aspect that can guide, if not establish, the choice.

At Östaia, however, the hoped-for accompaniment is, unfortunately, reduced to a cursory interrogation ("White or red?" / "Still or sparkling?" / "Liguria, okay?" / "Pigato, Vermentino, or Cinque Terre?"), without further information (producer, characteristics, price, etc.). We truly struggle to understand the rationale behind this policy, which, instead of showcasing an enviable cellar—just on the way out, we spotted some extraordinary champagnes, for example—keeps it jealously hidden.

Wasted opportunity, no. 3: the kitchen

Östaia's culinary offerings range from Ligurian staples (capponmagro, ravioli al tocco, gnocchetti al pesto, fried anchovies), inviting personal creations, and a few off-menu dishes (for which, yes, the price is listed here). But, once again, the recurring theme of missed opportunities rears its head.

While we appreciate the quality of the ingredients, a well-thought-out menu, and excellent technique, with a few exceptions, such as the excellent capponmagro, the result could be much better with a few simple adjustments.

For example, the (good) sweet and sour sauce is essential to tone down the smoothness of the (equally good) anchovy meatballs it's paired with, but the meager amount makes it barely enough for half. The spaghetti with julienned friggitelli peppers and anchovies, cooked more al dente than al dente (it needs a few minutes of cooking time), reveals a very pronounced but entirely understated spiciness. The stuffed calamari, accompanied by a successful yellow datterini tomato sauce and a somewhat avoidable bagged salad, have a delightful shrimp and borage filling, enclosed, however, in a decidedly dry mollusk.

Finally, the fried vegetables and anchovies confirm that the technical skill is not lacking – it is indeed light and crunchy – but it instills the suspicion that what is lacking, instead, is the desire to give something more: a pleasant dish, but not incisive.

I count

The bill is in line with local fare and justified by the quality of the ingredients. It stays within the €35-€45 range (drinks not included), making Ribotta a convenient and central option for a decent meal, outdoors in the warmer months and in a welcoming atmosphere during the rest of the year. Prices are reasonable, and if you're persistent, you can also enjoy excellent drinks.

A real shame, because with a little more effort he could, instead, aspire to a much different role.

Opinion

A modern and elegant osteria in the heart of Genoa, it has the potential to become one of the city's most popular if it were to break free from its self-destructive path. Thus, in the spacious roof garden, the view of the beautiful wisteria pergola is obscured by a plastic sheet that kills its charm. Guests are not informed of the splendid wine cellar, nor are they able to form an independent opinion because there is no wine list. The cuisine is decent, but with a little tweaking, it could be much better.