The Turin pizzeria that wants to be Neapolitan, but luckily doesn't manage to be

Wemà is a pizzeria in Turin (or rather, two) with a Neapolitan name—from ué ma', trans. "0 mother," with the intrusion of the un-Neapolitan dabliù—and a certain paraphernalia that ironically harks back to the South, and specifically to its legendary matriarchs (a carpet beater instead of an emergency hammer in a glass case, and similar amenities). But, oops, the pizza isn't Neapolitan, due to its

Wèmà in Turin

Wemà opened in Turin in December 2022 on Via Bogino, just off Via Po, a prime location for attracting both university students and those in the city's chic center. A second location opens in May of this year (2024), between Corso Inghilterra, behind Porta Susa station, and Corso Francia, in the residential area known as Cit Turin. We went to try this one—and it took us a moment to find it, given that the street is a secondary one, and a small garden in front of the venue gives it the unusual proximity of a green space but also somewhat obscures it.

The place is small (about thirty seats inside, about half outside) and well-kept, with contemporary furnishings tending towards industrial, and cheap, charming additions (“La madre pizza,” “Questa pizzeria non è un albergo,” etc.). The service is excellent and (truly) friendly.

The menu of Wèmà

Even the Wèmà menu is full of charm: just consider that the first item is Mom's Zoccoletto, the slipper they throw at you if you're not good, which are actually rectangles of pizza to dunk in ragù. And the pizza names are all truncated: Margherì, Bufalì, Marinà, Friarié, the classics, all the way up to Guancià, Formà, Tonnarè, Fiorellì, and finally even a little ceruttocà, but whatever.

Naming aside, the menu has the undeniable merit of being brief: six appetizers, mostly focused on fried food, but without the usual montanarine. And 22 pizzas, without the frills of internal subcategorizations, a feature that many contemporary pizza chefs appreciate. The menu is simple yet inviting, focusing on traditional flavors and modern classics (now well-known combinations like zucchini blossoms, anchovies, and stracciatella); there's no shortage of inventive touches or even a few lapses into the almost tacky (half calzone, half pizza, the charcoal dough, etc.).

Prices aren't cheap: aside from the Margherita (€7) and Marinara (€6), they're always over €10 and most often around €13, with a peak of €15 on the Fiorellì. Drinks are typically subpar: industrial beers on tap and in bottles, at least offset by two craft beers (private labels, i.e., branded Wèmà but produced by the La Granda brewery) and the cocktail concept.

Wèmà's pizzas

Before Wèmà's pizzas, we're going to try the most unusual and unusual appetizer: Fried Pizza Tacos, a small pizza folded in half and stuffed with mozzarella and prosciutto. It's delicious, barely greasy, so much so that it doesn't taste fried, and the inside is very flavorful, though obviously a bit salty.

The most striking thing about these pizzas is the dough: the crust is thin and has a moderately pronounced crust, even slightly charred. So far, it feels like you're in Naples, but when you cut it and taste it, surprise! The dough is thin and soft, but not soggy or rubbery; the base is dry without being crispy, beautifully browned; the crust is not a hint of undercooked. The non-wood-fired oven certainly helps, as it's slower and more evenly cooked, but the rising process also plays a part.

The toppings are good, especially the buffalo mozzarella: the mozzarella isn't watery, the tomato is sweet and not acidic. The Parmigiana is also good, with eggplant in two textures: fried cubes and creamed: the latter is beautifully presented but tastes like nothing. The Peperò is also top-notch, with a flavorful but not overpowering sausage, and two standouts: peppers and onions, which are incredibly sweet and light.

Opinion

A pizzeria that tries to seem Neapolitan at all costs, but instead offers a pizza with very un-Neapolitan characteristics: it's not a bad thing, and it's worth both a visit and a return.