27 September 2026
· · Search
THE UNIVERSAL GASTRONOMY AUTHORITY
World Kitchen Journal
This is how chefs report on the Easter table
The Table
By Helen Ashworth, The Canon desk · Hungría · 5 min ·

This is how chefs report on the Easter table

The Easter table: tradition and spontaneity.

Although classic Easter dishes are still firmly present in this circle, the framework of the holiday is now much more flexible. In the case of Péter Balogh, executive chef of KIOSK Budapest, there are no recipes set in stone: the Easter menu is determined more by the current offerings from the garden and the market. However, the ingredients from the pig slaughter really reach their peak at this time. “The most typical for us is smoked, boiled back knuckle, with my mother’s homemade horseradish, fresh vegetables and sourdough bread,” he says. The meat cooked slowly in a bay leaf and garlic broth is the real deal when the bone slides out of it with one movement, and he especially likes it cold. In contrast, for Keve Tóth, chef of Casa Christa, the classic Easter “set” remains unchanged almost every year: ham, eggs, bread, radishes, spring onions and horseradish are brought to the table year after year. The emphasis here is on the repetition of the usual order, which gives security and a framework to the holiday. For János Erdei, chef of Costes Restaurant, this idea appears even more strongly. For him, Easter is about a kind of continuity: the same foods and family elements return every year. The homemade ham from Kétegyháza, the communal egg painting and the presence of children all reinforce this repetitive yet meaningful system.

Season and ingredients: Easter as a new beginning.

It is clear that Easter, in addition to being a holiday, is also the time of the appearance of spring ingredients. For Péter Balogh, wild garlic is one of the most important such signs: due to the proximity of the Bakony Mountains, collecting it is a recurring family event every year. “It comes out of nowhere, lasts for a few weeks, and then disappears for a whole year,” he summarizes, noting that it is precisely this short, intense presence that makes it truly special. Its uses are diverse: it is used to make pesto, pickles, frozen ingredients, and of course, the classic wild garlic scone. Keve Tóth’s answers also emphasize the relationship with the ingredient, even if he approaches it from a different angle. Horseradish, for example, was foreign to him as a child, but today it is one of the most versatile and important elements of his kitchen. Used fresh, in creams or mayonnaise, it shows a completely new face.

Tradition, fine-tuning, new context

Here too, the question of rethinking is met with restrained answers, but the subtle shifts are already clearly visible. Péter Balogh does not believe in radical transformation, but rather refines and supplements: for example, the classic knuckle can be supplemented with new textures or ingredients, while the lamb is given Middle Eastern seasoning. The goal is not to create a completely new dish, but to preserve the original character while enriching it with new layers. Keve Tóth thinks similarly, only with more playful means: he prepares egg salad with various mustards, herbs and citrus fruits alongside boiled eggs, or he makes an intense, brightly colored mayonnaise from wild garlic oil. The classic elements are thus preserved, but appear in a fresher, lighter form. In János Erdei's case, on the other hand, change is almost completely relegated to the background. The value of the holiday lies precisely in repetition: the same flavors and rituals give Easter its significance.

Quantity, habit, awareness

The most divisive question this time was whether there is an Easter dish that is now served more out of habit than out of real need. The answers in this round also point towards awareness, but with much more specific approaches. Péter Balogh does not highlight a single dish, but rather the attitude. According to him, in many cases the issue is not with the dishes, but with the quantity. The idea that “Easter equals abundance” is still strongly present, even if there is actually no real need behind it. According to him, the emphasis today is more on putting on the table what we really want to eat, rather than on how abundant the holiday “should” be. Keve Tóth also gives specific examples. In many families, boiled ham or horseradish play a symbolic role rather than providing a real gastronomic experience. These dishes stay with us because of their meaning, and this is what keeps them alive. János Erdei's answer represents a slightly different perspective. For him, the question is not what is worth leaving behind, but what is worth keeping. The stability of the Easter table and the recurring dishes give the essence of the holiday, and it is precisely this predictability that creates value, regardless of how much these dishes change over time.

More The Table