A Taste Log: Salads, Fashion, and the Past

The acclaimed Caesar salad, a beautiful classic, enters the post-tribute phase and the descent from the cloud on which it has been placed, quickly returns to its earthly phase, to remain like the sigh that usually escapes in those dishes that tire the diner but that past affection does not allow them to move from the table.

All culinary traditions are beautiful. The nostalgia for salads at grandma's or mother's house will always be remembered, whether for the simplicity of olive oil with lemon and salt, or for the complexity of dressings where mustard, pepper, and vinegar often complicate the preparation but ultimately lead to a greater enjoyment for the diner.

Restaurants in the 1960s served beautifully presented vegetables, often excessively decorated. Art was created with various cartoonish elements, techniques that, unfortunately, are still taught in culinary schools. Who didn't see a tomato on their plate cut to resemble a flower? Cucumbers were also transformed into works of art, and peas were arranged with millimeter precision. The boiled egg, an influence from French cuisine, appeared on every plate, and, bordering on the appalling, there were swans constructed from vegetables and mayonnaise, making the national cuisine a grotesque display of a lack of identity.

But today, all is not lost, despite the lingering legacy of a past where we were ashamed to cook according to our own culture. There are still places where cooking is practiced, and their menus include delicious salads that boast both striking simplicity and great flavor.

As a prime example, there's the tomato and tuna belly salad at Bulla in the Condesa neighborhood. Its dressing is unique, a blend of ingredients that takes you from the acidity to the bold flavor of pepper and mustard. The choice of tomatoes speaks volumes about their commitment to quality, and of course, the tuna comes with the guarantee of Chef Pedro Martin's dedication to using only the finest ingredients.

Another salad that has left me eager to order it again is the one served at La Esquina, a restaurant also in La Condesa, where Michael Crespo offers lettuce, arugula and some quelite with a dressing so mild that it complements the freshness of the crunchy vegetable, giving the idea that it has been freshly cut.

Following the tradition of rich and well-presented French cuisine, chef Israel Montero of Saint Jacques Bistrot served me a Nice salad where the mix of fresh vegetables including lettuce, olives, green beans, potatoes and capers, make a beautiful and modern presentation of a classic salad.

It is worth highlighting, in the broadest sense, that salads in our country have played a small role in the creative and gastronomic effort, hence from 1940, Josefina Velázquez de León and Agustín Aragón y Leiva, through their cooking texts, brought elements of national identity, where the salads and their plating, tried to be closer to the cooking of our homes than to the cosmopolitan sumptuousness of the French cuisine that was very rooted in our country.

However, despite the efforts of these two great Mexicans, over the years, salad hasn't become a staple on the table, and many see it as merely a complement to other dishes. That's why I've been wondering lately if this season's salads are the brainchild of some culinary star or if they've arrived on their own due to a shift in dietary awareness, bringing with them the exquisite freshness that comes from the most prized product in the Mexican pantry.

Or are we perhaps shifting towards salad as a main course rather than a side dish? Or is it perhaps in danger of becoming a passing fad, like broccoli, cauliflower, or Brussels sprouts were not long ago? We won't have the answer yet, but one thing is clear: these three salads have left a lasting impression that I want to enjoy again with complete freedom and without so many questions.