Palate Logbook: Ixi'im and Zeru kitchens for a well-founded memory

Luis Ronzón cooks with his soul, his hands, and a warm heart. His technique is the result of meticulous discipline, and he isn't afraid to travel long distances to share the flavors of a peninsula that has welcomed him with open arms for years. From his restaurant, Ixi'im, in Yucatán, Luis has planted a seed in the memory of the palate that will soon bear the fruits of the natural dreams of well-trained chefs.

Luis cooked with Israel Aretxiga, chef of Zer u in Mexico City on June 6th and the two characters, who as the days go by surprise with their cooking, their creativity and their kindness, become gentlemen of the kitchen, who in the sum of talents and techniques, deliver to us as a result the perfect synergy of well achieved flavor.

The menu, designed by the two chefs, was so similar in technique and presentation that at times I doubted they were the work of four hands. I was pleasantly surprised at times during the dinner, such as when the crab salbute and the spider crab tartlet seemed so similar in technique that only their names distinguished them. What exquisite perfection that starter was!

The gazpacho of cherry and fermented strawberry distracted me from the wonderful company at the table. Instead of following the good conversation, I focused solely on my sense of taste, savoring every sip of that refreshing dish. The pairing, designed by the brilliant Arisbeth Araujo and Andrés Amor, brought a subtle harmony to the wine from the Valdejalón region of Aragon, Spain, making this dish the perfect complement to the broad smiles on everyone's faces. The second course, aguachile of shrimp, guajillo pepper, and seaweed, was beautiful in both appearance and flavor. The subtle, spicy, reddish hue and the quality of the ingredients elevated the flavor when sipped slowly with a wine from Veneto, Italy.

Israel never ceases to amaze with his masterful fish cooking technique. He knows how to bring out the flavor and delivers it in a perfectly cooked dish, such as the confit Escolar with Jerusalem artichoke foam and roasted vegetables, a dish that many renowned restaurants would envy, one that could be prepared without bones or the mistakes of culinary novices.

Luis Ronzón prepared a traditional Ixi'im dish of rice with venison. At the suggestion of the host chef, instead of the rice in the original recipe, a crispy bottom layer (socarrado) was added, bringing together two culinary cultures represented by renowned chefs to offer a fresh perspective through this addition to the cooking and preparation of the rice. The dish was also notable for its wine pairing: a Monastrell blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from Jumilla, Spain, which allowed the dish to take center stage, making the wine the perfect complement to the moment.

The dessert, whose ultimate lesson in enjoyment is etched in my memory and heart, was a chocolate tamale-style confection accompanied by a tropical fruit paste. The port wine that paired it lived up to its 20 years of aging and smoothly brought the evening to a close. Two chefs, with their kind demeanor, unassuming approach to life, and excellent technique, came together to deliver a menu that stood out for its consistent technique, harmonious flavors, and above all, the genuine human touch of those who cook to give, not to receive praise, awards, or medals—which, in recent times, have become obstacles to cooking and enjoying.

I was left wanting to experience this Siamese cuisine again, and I know that soon, time and distance will bring them together in a kitchen once more, where my table will be across the hall, and amidst conversations, laughter, and joyful banter, we will continue to enjoy the pleasure of both the cook and the diner. Because to enjoy a good dish and a wonderful moment, you don't need medals or rankings, but rather genuine feelings to offer a dish from the heart.