Cannibal Guides: Cusco

At over 3,300 meters above sea level, breathing becomes shallow and the body craves light yet comforting food. Its cuisine has been shaped by mountains and rituals, by Andean heritage and colonial influences, but also by the needs of its visitors. In recent years, however, its gastronomy has undergone a reinvention: it has moved from simple, home-style fare to a deeper exploration of ingredients and the land. The Lima boom paved the way for a new generation of cooks—chefs, baristas, bartenders, and bakers—who also look to the south and understand that sustainability is not just talk, but a lived experience.

Cusco is no longer just a stopover on the way to Machu Picchu. It is, in its own right, a gastronomic destination.

Restaurants

Oqre

Address: Calle Palacio, 136. Located in the Hotel Monasterio, Oqre offers contemporary Andean cuisine led by Jorge Muñoz, former chef of Pakta (one Michelin star). His menu reinterprets Peruvian classics with technique and elegance—such as his corn with cheese, huancaína foam, and uchucuta with quinoa, or his tiradito of cured trout with mango, pickled cucumber, and curry and huacatay tiger's milk—in a baroque and historic setting that connects art, territory, and flavor.

Up

Address: Nazarenas, 337. Pía León connects haute cuisine with ancestral ingredients and nearly extinct species like mauka. Her menu for the Palacio Nazarenas hotel reinterprets local products such as quinoa, sanki, and turmeric using contemporary techniques, delivering dishes that combine flavor, memory, and landscape in a minimalist style.

You are Raimi

Address: Plazoleta Santo Domingo 259. Carlos Risco offers a menu that evokes memory, emotion, and Andean heritage. Salmon with tagliatelle in a shrimp sauce with lemon foam and ají panca pepper; confit guinea pig with corn pepian; and lamb cannelloni with peas are some of the dishes on offer. They also offer gastronomic experiences such as pisco tastings, cooking classes, and native potato tastings.

Quespi Restaurant and Bar

Address: Calle Ruinas 432. Chef Rely Alencastre draws inspiration from local produce, reinterpreting ingredients from the San Pedro market—such as lake trout, white corn, shrimp, and Andean potatoes—into fresh and balanced dishes. The Sunday breakfast buffet is designed with children in mind, offering a variety of activities.

Pachapapa

Address: Carmen Bajo, 120. A contemporary Cusco classic. Clay ovens, native potatoes, chili peppers, and slow-cooked meats. Among the favorites are: corn on the cob with paria cheese, butter, and Andean spices; guinea pig baked with huacatay; and chayro cuzqueño, a traditional soup made with lamb and Andean grains.

Lord

Address: Portal Harinas, 181. Color, flavor, and tradition in a modern take on Peruvian cuisine. Reinterpreted classics like alpaca pepper steak or agnolotti filled with Andean squash, herb butter, and chestnut foam—to fill both your stomach and your heart.

Sacred

Address: Plateros, 309. Contemporary Peruvian cuisine with Mediterranean influences. Sagrado offers comforting dishes such as cream of corn soup with fried cheese, short ribs with beans, or an Andean chupe with organic quinoa and a poached egg. They also have more modern options with an Asian flair, such as their rice paper baskets filled with ceviche-style trout.

Local

Address: Cuesta San Blas, 525. Local ingredients, dishes to share. Ideal for a leisurely brunch, a relaxed lunch, or an intimate dinner. From their short rib empanadas to their chocolate bomb, their dishes are sure to be memorable.

The Osteria

Address: Calle Procuradores, 362. An intimate trattoria in the heart of Cusco. Its menu includes Neapolitan-style pizzas, homemade pastas, and classic Italian dishes prepared using traditional techniques.

The Cellar 138

Address: Herrajes 138. Pizzas, hearty salads, and a warm atmosphere. Ideal for a relaxed break after exploring the city. They offer classic pizzas as well as those with local touches, like the Leo XIV: with mozzarella, Canchan potatoes, and rosemary.

Alqa

Address: Calle Sipas s/n, Ollantaytambo. A gastronomic laboratory that pays homage to the farmer. Alqa celebrates Andean identity with local ingredients and contemporary techniques. For example, with red quinoa with tender broad beans, toasted corn, elderflower, wild purslane, and beetroot powder.

The picanterías

The Cursed Rocoto Peppers

Address: Marques 220. Stuffed potato, stuffed rocoto peppers Cusco-style, Cusco-style adobo, and chicharrón. Enormous portions, impossible to finish. Mrs. Vilma also prepares quinoa chicha, a traditional drink from this region.

The Cusqueñita

Address: Av. Centenario, 800. One of the oldest and most beloved. It has music, chicha (a fermented corn beverage), and real food. A living tribute to tradition. Zarza de patitas (a dish of pig's feet), de criadillas (a dish of testicles), capchi de setas (a mushroom stew), and traditional soups like chairo (a hearty soup) and caldo de costillar (a rib broth).

Cusqueñísima Picantería

Address: José Gabriel Cossio, 401. Hearty dishes, straightforward flavors. Traditional home cooking, no frills. Roast suckling pig with Cusco-style tamales, breaded and cheese-stuffed morayas (dehydrated potatoes), solteritos (a salad of salads), escabeche (pickled vegetables), tongue in tomato sauce, locro de pecho (a hearty stew), and other traditional dishes that are hard to find these days.

Bars

Garibaldi Cocktail Bar

Address: Calle Maruri 320. Hidden inside a historic house, this restaurant offers creativity, balance, and impeccable technique. Its creator, Luis Sarmiento, offers a menu that changes with the seasons and always surprises with his creations using Peruvian spirits such as Salqa and Matacuy.

Limbus Restobar

Address: Calle Pasñapakana 133, San Blas. The bar with the best view in the city. Ideal for sunsets with a pisco sour or Andean gin and tonic in hand.

Rumi Bar

Address: Plazoleta Santo Domingo 259 Known for preparing one of the best pisco sours in Cusco, which can be enjoyed in front of authentic 13th-century Inca walls belonging to the ancient temple of Qoricancha.

Black Cat

Address: Calle Procuradores 358.

A youthful space with a traveler's spirit and good prices. Ideal for relaxed evenings. Cocktails with pisco and twists on classics like the Cusco Mule, made with matacuy and huacatay.

The Library

Address: Portal Comercio 121. To enter, you have to move a shelf full of books. Set in the 1920s, this bar, led by André Querol, offers interesting signature cocktails such as the Mystic: rum, a blend of vermouths, and Porcón mushroom.

Cafés

Three Monkeys Company

Address: Calle Pampa de la Alianza 474. The most consistent coffee in Cusco. Precise roasting, trained baristas, and impeccable traceability. Ranked 22nd in the world's best coffee shops, it offers eight coffees from different regions of Peru, from the heights of the Andes to the depths of the high jungle.

Florence & Fortunata

Address: Calle Suecia 332. Peruvian coffee from a female perspective. In this tranquil space, everything—from the selection of beans to the service—is handled by women. They serve specialty coffees from Cusco and Cajamarca, sourdough breads, and artisanal pastries. It's among the 100 best coffee shops in the world for its quality and social commitment.

Latent (Ollantaytambo)

Address: Chaupi Street, Ollantaytambo. A coffee shop, upscale pastry shop, and signature drinks surrounded by stone walls. One of the most authentic spots in Cusco. Their affogato with corn ice cream is a must-try.

Shopping

San Pedro Market

Address: Thupaq Amaru 477

Bustling from the early hours of the morning, the San Pedro Market is vibrant and chaotic; a haven of local life filled with colors, smells, and sounds, where vendors selling fruits and vegetables, breads, meats, cheeses, and herbs mingle with restaurants offering hundreds of stews, tamales, empanadas, soups, snacks, and sweets. There are also craft stalls.

That

Address: Carmen Alto 260 A slow fashion store with unique pieces created by Eibhilin Cassidy, an Irish designer based in Cusco since 2003.

Tater Vera Ceramics

Address: Jr. Tugasuca 145. Masks, hand-painted Pucará bulls, sculptures, plates, vases, and all kinds of utilitarian ceramics. Classes are also available where you can learn alongside the master craftsman.