Simpar, another treasure in the heart of Santiago

This is the case of Axel Smyth, who, along with his partner in business and in life, the Ecuadorian Claudia Merchán, is sweeping awards and competitions. Experts are captivated by the authenticity of their stews and the delicacy of their creative dishes wherever they go. In less than two years, they were named Revelation Chef at Madrid Fusion, won the World Tripe Championship at San Sebastián Gastronomika, the Croquette Championship at the Madrid congress, and earned a Michelin star for their restaurant Simpar, their first project as owners. They both live up to the name they chose, and their story is truly unique, unparalleled, at least in terms of professional accolades. However, when it comes to the challenges of running a personal culinary project, they face a situation similar to that of other young colleagues who decide to venture into and develop their careers in the haute cuisine sector, arguably the most difficult segment of the profession today. With the visibility that all the awards they've received have given them, they should have long waiting lists to eat at their restaurant, where not only is the food wonderful, but they also offer the most affordable menu of the Michelin-starred restaurants in the Galician capital, at 110 euros.

The reality, they acknowledge, is that they have to fight and struggle to make the project a success. Being located on Rúa do Vilar, in the heart of Santiago de Compostela's historic center, just a few meters from the cathedral, where thousands of pilgrims pass by, doesn't guarantee a full house.

Let no one think that his star is one of those that arrive prematurely, before the professionals or the project have fully developed culinarily. At his previous restaurant as head chef, Auga e Sal, they already earned the Michelin star in no time.

At Simpar, the essence of Galician cuisine shines through—not only in the inspiration of the recipes, but also in the flavor codes and the pantry—along with the most refined techniques and raw materials sourced from the best suppliers of fish, vegetables, and poultry.

Axel manages to take things to the next level, so that at times, with your eyes closed, you might think you're in a refined Galician eatery, and at other times in a very personal, creative haute cuisine restaurant, so much so that they are another rare bird in the city where it would seem easier to cater to the spartan demands of pilgrims.

What's remarkable about Smyth is that he not only creates complex and delicious dishes, like his cruciferous vegetable salad with its perfect balance of textures, bitterness, and acidity, but he also excels at the most popular dishes. His aforementioned croquettes and his exquisitely delicate Galician-style tripe would alone justify a top-notch tavern. I was one of the judges at the World Tripe Championship, which crowned him champion at San Sebastián Gastronomika, and I have to say we had little doubt. They are tender and perfectly balanced thanks to the quality of the ingredients and the technique. The tripe includes tendon, trotter, snout, tripe, knee, knuckle, ham, chorizo, blood sausage, bacon, and chickpeas. He cooks them for seven hours, lets them rest, lifts them out of the heat, and lets them rest again. Haute cuisine for the masses?

The Simpar menu we just enjoyed began with a quartet of portobello mushroom dishes, each more exquisite than the last. From an almond tart to a meringue with pâté, a fritter, and a rich consommé. The ham croquette, the undisputed star of the show, confirmed the level of delight that was to come.

If we're talking about the fusion of traditional Galician cuisine with refined sophistication, we have to mention the magnificent red mullet with Galician garlic sauce in a variety of textures, with its firm flesh, mashed potatoes, and peas. Equally successful are a surprising creamy rice with sea urchin and figwort, and a sort of 'Celtic rooster' royal with truffle, its texture subtle yet delicate, and its sauce perfectly balanced in aroma and flavor.

The other half of Simpar, Claudia, is the pastry chef, although in small houses everyone does a bit of everything. The two desserts we had were a perfect end to the meal, especially a frozen raspberry tart, as original as it was refreshing, tangy, and low in sugar.

The revision of the Santiago cake is understandable, a curious proposal that uses the same ingredients and has the same flavor, but with a radically different appearance, a fun game because it is richer than its somewhat naive appearance might suggest.

The restaurant has a good wine list, not only Galician wines, but above all, it offers them at such good prices that it encourages you to order a second bottle.

Simpar should be packed. There are few fine-dining restaurants with such a personal touch, so deeply rooted in tradition, cooked with talent and quality ingredients at a fair price. If you're ever in Santiago, don't miss it.