Traditional Korean Kimchi Recipe (Kimjang Kimchi)

Growing up in Korea, kimjang meant watching my mother prepare more than 100 heads of napa cabbage for winter. Our courtyard would fill with salted cabbage, bowls of red seasoning paste, and neighbors working together from morning until evening.

This traditional whole-cabbage kimchi, known as pogi kimchi (포기김치), follows the method I grew up with, but I’ve scaled it down to just two heads of napa cabbage. It takes some work, but you don’t need a courtyard full of people to make it!

My method uses a food-safe brining bag to help the cabbage wilt evenly in 3–4 hours. Then I coat the leaves with a rich seasoning paste made with homemade stock, gochugaru, radish, garlic, ginger, and salted shrimp.

If you’re looking for a simpler version with chopped cabbage, try my easy napa cabbage kimchi. This recipe is for the traditional whole-cabbage method, especially suited to making kimchi ahead for winter.

Kimjang in Korean Homes

Kimjang (김장) is the Korean tradition of preparing large batches of kimchi for winter, and it always felt like the unofficial start of the cold season in our home. Growing up in a big family, I remember the neighborhood ladies gathering in our courtyard to salt cabbages, mix seasoning paste, and chat as they worked.

The next day, my mother would head to a neighbor’s house to help with their kimjang. It wasn’t simply about making kimchi; it was a shared winter ritual, a way of supporting each other when the weather turned cold.

In the past, kimjang kimchi was stored in giant earthenware jars (“onggi,” 옹기) buried underground to ferment slowly through the winter. Today, most families use kimchi refrigerators, but the heart of kimjang—the sense of community, generosity, and preparing food with care—remains the same.

Kimjang is only one part of Korea’s rich kimchi tradition. If you’d like to explore other varieties, browse my Korean kimchi recipes, from everyday cabbage kimchi to refreshing radish and water kimchi.

From Traditional Kimjang to a Smaller Batch

Traditional kimjang often involves preparing many heads of napa cabbage at once. For this recipe, I’ve scaled the process down to two large cabbages, about 10 lb (4.6 kg) total.

The method stays the same: brine the cabbage, prepare the stock and seasoning paste, spread the seasoning between the leaves, and bundle the cabbages for fermentation.

It’s still a hands-on project, but much more manageable for a home kitchen. If you’re making kimchi for the first time, I recommend starting with this batch before attempting a larger one.

If you enjoy napa cabbage kimchi but prefer something without chili flakes, try my white kimchi (baek kimchi). It has a mild, refreshing flavor and makes a lovely alternative to this spicy version.

Choosing the Napa Cabbage

The key to excellent kimchi starts with choosing the right napa cabbage. Look for cabbages that are heavy for their size, about 5 lb, with tightly packed leaves that are crisp and fresh.

Avoid cabbages with wilted or yellowing outer leaves. Medium to large-sized cabbages are ideal for kimjang kimchi, as their leaves are sturdy enough to hold the seasoning while fermenting beautifully.

Korean Coarse Sea Salt

Korean coarse sea salt (cheonilyeom, 천일염) is traditionally used for brining napa cabbage. Its large crystals are easy to sprinkle between the leaves, especially around the thick white stems.

For this recipe, I use 2½ cups of coarse salt, divided between the saltwater and direct salting. Since crystal size varies by brand, weigh your salt if possible.

Most of the brining salt is rinsed away before the seasoning is added, but the cabbage should still taste pleasantly seasoned after rinsing.

Korean Chili Flakes (Gochugaru)

Korean chili flakes, or gochugaru, are vital for giving kimchi its vibrant red color and distinctive flavor. Gochugaru strikes a perfect balance of heat, smokiness, and a hint of sweetness, unmatched by other chili powders.

Coarsely ground gochugaru is best for kimchi as it blends smoothly into the paste and coats the cabbage evenly. When selecting gochugaru, look for a bright red variety labeled as a product of Korea.

High-quality gochugaru not only delivers authentic depth and complexity to kimjang kimchi but also enhances its beautiful scarlet red hue, making your kimchi visually appealing and flavorful.

Salt Brining

Salt brining is an essential step to evenly season the cabbage and achieve the perfect texture for fermentation. Traditional methods often involve soaking the cabbage in a saltwater solution for 8-10 hours—which can be quite a task, especially when it comes to finding a container large enough. (I’ve even resorted to using my kitchen sink or bathtub!)

My method is slightly different and more efficient than other approaches. After quickly dipping the cabbage in a saltwater solution, I sprinkle extra coarse sea salt on the thick white stems, which take longer to wilt than the leafy parts. Then, I place the cabbages in a large, heavy-duty plastic bag and tie it tightly to block air exposure.

This approach speeds up the process, reducing the brining time to just 3-4 hours. The bag method is also convenient, as it allows you to flip or toss the bag occasionally to ensure even brining without needing a large container.

With this method, you’ll get evenly brined cabbage with flexible white stems and tender leaves. Use a large food-safe brining bag intended for direct food contact. Make sure it’s large and sturdy enough to hold the cabbage and brine without overcrowding.

Kimchi Stock and Rice Flour Paste

I make a homemade kimchi stock with dried pollock, anchovies, kelp, radish, apple, pear, and Asian leek. The stock adds savory depth to the seasoning paste without making it taste noticeably fishy.

After simmering and straining the stock, I use part of it to cook the sweet rice flour into a smooth, syrupy paste. This helps the seasoning cling to the cabbage leaves rather than sliding off.

Let the rice flour paste cool completely before mixing it with the vegetables and gochugaru. A cooled paste is easier to handle and won’t heat the fresh ingredients.

Kimchi Seasoning Paste

Julienned Korean radish gives the paste texture, while green onions, Asian leek, and mustard greens add a fresh, peppery bite. Mustard greens can be omitted if you prefer, although I like their flavor in traditional kimjang kimchi.

Brining the cabbage

Prepare the Cabbage: Start by making a small slit at the base of the white stem with a knife, then use your hands to gently pull the cabbage apart into halves. Next, make another slit in the center of the stem of each cabbage half to loosen it further.

Make Salt Brine: Dissolve 1 cup of Korean coarse sea salt in 10 cups (2.4 L) of water. Dip each cabbage half into the saltwater, letting the brine reach between the leaves.

Sprinkle Extra Salt: Remove the cabbage from the saltwater. Sprinkle the remaining 1½ cups of coarse sea salt between the leaves, concentrating on the thick white stems. Use a little on each stem, then distribute any remaining salt over the cabbage.

Brine the Cabbage in a Bag: Place the salted cabbage in a large food-safe brining bag. Remove excess air and close the bag securely. Let the cabbage brine for 3–4 hours, turning the bag occasionally so the cabbage wilts evenly.

The thick white stems should bend without snapping when the cabbage is properly brined. If they’re still stiff, give the cabbage more time and check again.

Drain the Cabbage: Rinse the cabbage thoroughly with water a couple of times to remove excess salt. Place the cabbage in a strainer and gently press to remove extra water. Let the cabbage drain for 1 hour, while you prepare the kimchi seasoning.

Preparing Kimchi Seasoning Paste

Simmer Kimchi Stock: Combine the dried pollock head, anchovies, kelp, radish, apple, pear, and Asian leek in a pot with 4 cups (960 ml) of water. Bring to a boil, then remove the kelp. Reduce the heat and simmer for 30 minutes. Strain the stock, discard the solids, and reserve the liquid for the rice flour paste and kimchi seasoning.

Make Rice Flour Paste: Whisk 2 tablespoons (16 g) of sweet rice flour into 1 cup (240 ml) of kimchi stock. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until thickened into a smooth, syrupy paste. Remove from the heat and let it cool completely.

Puree the Aromatics and Salted Shrimp: Combine onion, garlic, ginger, pear, and salted shrimp in a blender. Puree until smooth. If the mixture is too thick, add a small amount of kimchi stock to help the blender run smoothly.

Coat Radish Strips with Gochugaru: Cut the Korean radish into thin, ⅛-inch matchsticks. Toss with 2 tablespoons of gochugaru, taken from the measured 2 cups. Let the radish sit for a few minutes to absorb the color.

Prepare Mustard Greens: Chop green aromatics like Asian leeks and green onions into thin slices. For an extra peppery kick, you can add Korean mustard greens (gat, 갓). Mustard greens are common addition in kimjang kimchi, but it is optional and can be omitted if preferred.

Mix Kimchi Seasoning Paste: Combine the radish, chopped greens, cooled rice flour paste, aromatic puree, remaining gochugaru, anchovy sauce, sugar, and Korean plum extract. Mix until the vegetables are evenly coated and the seasoning forms a thick, cohesive paste.

Assembling Kimchi

Once the cabbage is brined and the paste is prepared, the process of assembling kimchi begins.

Spread the Seasoning Paste: Hold the cabbage with one hand and gently open the outer 1-2 leaves with your other hand. Spread the seasoning paste between each leaf, using just enough to coat evenly without overloading. Be gentle to avoid tearing the leaves.

Make Kimchi Bundle: After applying the seasoning paste to all the leaves, fold the cabbage leaves inward and wrap them with the large outermost leaf to create a neat, compact bundle. Place each bundle tightly into an airtight container or jar lined with a plastic bag. Press down firmly to remove air pockets.

Add Remaining Seasoning: Rinse the bowl with 1 cup of remaining kimchi stock (or water) to collect any leftover seasoning. Pour it over the kimchi bundles in the container. The liquid will develop into a flavorful kimchi brine during fermentation.

One of my favorite kimjang memories is the bossam (boiled pork belly) party my mother prepared for the neighbors who came to help. After a long day of making kimchi, we’d gather around the table with steaming slices of pork belly and freshly seasoned cabbage. That first bite always made the day’s work worthwhile. If you’d like to recreate the tradition, serve your freshly made kimchi with bossam while the cabbage is still crisp.

Fermenting and Storing Kimjang Kimchi

Pack the kimchi bundles snugly into a clean, food-safe kimchi container, pressing them down to minimize air pockets. Leave headspace for expansion and use the container according to its manufacturer’s fermentation instructions.

Once fermentation is complete, transfer the kimchi to the refrigerator. It will continue developing a tangier flavor as it ferments slowly in the cold.

As the kimchi becomes sourer, I like using it for cooking rather than serving it straight from the container. Well-fermented kimchi makes a wonderful kimchi jjigae with pork, and crispy kimchi pancakes (kimchi jeon) are another delicious way to put it to good use.

Salt brine for cabbage

Kimchi stock

Aromatics

Kimchi seasoning paste

To salt brine the cabbage

To make kimchi stock and rice flour paste

To make kimchi seasoning paste

To assemble kimchi

To ferment and store kimchi