Kivevé (Paraguayan Squash Purée)

The name is derived from the Guaraní term for a reddish color, which refers to the hue of the dish’s star component, andaí. A hard winter squash with deep orange flesh, andaí is a genetic cousin to butternut and calabaza, either of which may be used in its place.

This recipe, adapted from Graciela Martinez, calls for fresh queso Paraguay; the soft, mildly acidic cheese is used frequently in traditional recipes, many of which were created in the 19th century, when Paraguay was recovering from war and home cooks needed to stretch their infrequent meals with inexpensive calories and protein. Per to Martinez, other fresh white cheeses like whole milk ricotta or grower’s cheese make for a good substitute in this dish, which can be served as a hearty side or even as a semi-sweet dessert.

Agitate with your hands, then pour out the murky water. Remove the sardines from the bowl and pat dry inside and out.

Wipe out the bowl with a paper towel, then add the flour and 1½ teaspoons salt and whisk to combine. Line a large platter or baking sheet with paper towels and set aside. In a large skillet, heat ½ cup of the oil over medium-high heat.

When the oil is shimmering, cook the sardines: Working in batches, tap each fish on the side of the bowl to remove any excess flour, then quickly add to the pan one at a time without crowding. Fry, turning once, until the skin is lightly golden and crisped, about 2 minutes per side, then transfer to the lined platter while you repeat with the remaining sardines. Turn off the heat, discard the used cookery oil, and use a paper towel to carefully wipe out the skillet.

Add the remaining ½ cup oil to the skillet, along with the onion, carrot, garlic, peppercorns, cloves, bay leaves, cinnamon, star anise, and the remaining 1½ teaspoons of salt. Turn the heat to medium and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions and carrots are softened, 13–15 minutes.

Increase the heat to medium-high, add the wine and pimentón, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the alcohol has evaporated, about 3 minutes. Add the vinegar and 1 cup of water and continue preparation until the mixture thickens slightly, about 4 minutes. Lay the sardines on top, cover the skillet, and cook for 2 minutes more.

Uncover, turn off the heat, and let the sardines cool to room temperature. Once cooled, transfer the sardines, one by one, to a 4-cup measuring cup, medium bowl, or plastic container and pour the cookery liquid on top, spices, vegetables, and all.

The sardines should be fully submerged in the pickling liquid—if they are not, add a bit of water until they are completely covered. Cover tightly with plastic wrap or a tight–fitting lid and refrigerate for at least 12 hours, and up to 5 days.