A farm and a wedding
The story of Coque is the story of three brothers' struggle to transform the modest grill they inherited from their parents in a town southwest of Madrid into a two-Michelin-starred restaurant, a perennial contender for a third star.
For those of us who have closely followed and supported their work, even during times of limited recognition, it's a joy to see how far this family, which has always remained united, has come. From the very beginning, the other brothers rallied around Mario, the youngest and the chef. Rafael, managing a spectacular wine cellar, and Diego, acting as the perfect host, are essential pillars for Mario's sophisticated cuisine.
Since moving to the capital, Coque became one of the city's top restaurants, but that wasn't enough for the ever-entrepreneurial Sandoval brothers. So they opened a more casual space, Coquetto.
And then came the great adventure: the purchase five years ago of a huge estate, very close to El Escorial, where they practice biodynamic agriculture, raise livestock (especially a herd of fighting bulls managed by Rafael, a former bullfighter), and have equipped the property to host all kinds of events. The natural setting, the facilities, the impeccable service, and Mario's cuisine make El Jaral de la Mira one of the most sought-after venues in Madrid for weddings and presentations.
Last week, Ángel Pardo, former head of communications for Michelin, got married there, and I can assure you that I have rarely attended a wedding of such high quality. Among the guests was a large contingent of Michelin-starred chefs: Eneko Atxa, Elena Arzak, Ramón Freixa, Javi Olleros, Paco Roncero, Francis Paniego, Ricardo Sanz, Óscar Velasco, José Carlos García, Fernando Villasclaras, and Diego del Río.
For appetizers, there were Discarlux meats, Joselito ham, bone marrow caviar, giant scarlet prawns, tuna belly… and two superb rice dishes (seafood paella and duck paella) prepared by Luis Valls, the chef of El Poblet in Valencia. Then, for the main course, the essential suckling pig with crispy skin and succulent meat, which has always been Coque's specialty since its days in Humanes. Things can be done badly, so-so, well, very well, or excellently, and the Sandoval brothers certainly understand this perfectly.
