Devilish old woman's head. Nacho Ovalle in La Calma by Fredes
Chilean seafood cuisine is experiencing a revival. A revitalizing wave of restaurants has gained momentum, helping to address the historical neglect of the country's gastronomy regarding its abundant marine resources, so prevalent in the nation's life yet so often absent from its kitchens.
Among them shines La Calma by Fredes, a restaurant especially committed to the marine pantry through the cuisine of Ignacio Ovalle, who maintains a complex network of artisanal fishermen, shore gatherers and shellfish gatherers, with whom he establishes long-term relationships, based on fair prices.
La Calma champions Chilean cuisine, establishing itself as a cult restaurant; a must-visit whenever you're in Santiago. At the helm is Mauricio Fredes, with a clear vision. “Our focus is on sourcing quality fish and seafood daily, ensuring our customers are seated comfortably, guaranteeing spotless tablecloths and perfectly toasted bread, and constantly rethinking how we can best serve our guests. That's what our customers will tell you about.”
Ingredients for four people
- 1 head of black old woman (Graus nigra) weighing 2 kg.
- 35 g of fermented goat horn chili pepper.
- 3 g of merquén.
- 10 g of garlic.
- 1 key lime (100 g).
- 3 g of Cahuil sea salt.
- 2 g of black pepper.
- 250 cc of dryland lamb demi-glace.
- 120 g of wheat flour.
- Enough hydrogenated oil for deep frying.
- 5 g of parsley.
Elaboration
- Clean the head thoroughly, removing the gills.
- Parting through the mouth, through the upper jaw, to the tungo in order to divide it.
- Marinate with goat horn paste, crushed garlic, merquén, zest and juice of a small lemon, Cáhuil salt and black pepper.
- Coat in flour and fry in a deep pan at 180°C for 5 minutes. Drain off excess oil.
- Heat the demi-glace with the fermented goat horn chili and begin to glaze the head.
- Bake at 220º with 20% humidity for three minutes and then repeat the lacquering process, baking again for another three minutes.
- Finish with a glaze of demi-glace, sprinkle with finely chopped parsley and lemon zest. Serve.
