Nonna Aurora's Delicacies in Bologna, a review: the charm of an old-fashioned trattoria

Luckily, there are still places like this that give us a sigh of relief and remind us that it's still possible to offer solid, tasty, rustic (sometimes even free-range) cuisine without too many frills, at more than fair prices.

From the outside, the somewhat modest storefront with its brass frames doesn't inspire much confidence, but don't be fooled: the entire decor has deliberately remained anchored to the 1970s, with large mirrors and wood paneling along the walls. White tablecloths, wicker chairs, and simple tableware complete the look. In the summer, a few tables are also set up outside, along the sidewalk—which also includes the bike path—and on the small terrace in front of the trattoria's entrance, though the area isn't the city's most charming and the traffic doesn't improve it.

The menu features all the classic Bolognese dishes, from tortelloni to lasagna, to pasta in broth like zuppa imperiale and the ever-present tortellini. Main courses range from meatballs to Bolognese cutlets, with some touches of more national-popular dishes like veal tenderloin, paillard, or simply eggs with ham. The wine list isn't extensive, which isn't surprising, but it does offer typical local wines at a modest markup, and that's enough. To start, we had a round of fried crescentine with cured meats, squacquerone cheese, and pickles (€15), having two portions brought to us to share. We could have easily gotten by on those because the fried dough squares were plump and soft, served piping hot as per protocol, and were accompanied by a decent selection of cured meats and the soft cheese that melted between the fragrant crescentine folded in half. It's true that there are still some restaurants that make them in the city center, but they are increasingly rare and the quality is not necessarily excellent, while these alone are worth a visit.

Among the first courses, there are two specialties that aren't found every day: tagliatelle with ham and onion (10 euros), masterfully seasoned with a sweet and fragrant sauce, and tagliatelle ripassate in padella (10 euros), which are simply "fried tagliatelle" made with leftover tagliatelle with ragù, reheated with a drizzle of oil until a crust forms (which in this case is abundant). It's a unique and rare dish to find in a trattoria. I also have fond memories of the lasagna (10 euros), which I tried on a different occasion—a slab of pasta dripping with opulence, not bad at all. But the highlight remains the tortellini (13 euros). While they're not the best in Bologna, they're certainly among the best in terms of quality/price ratio, and in any case, they stand out for their perfect size, the savory yet balanced filling, and the magnificent capon broth.

The second course is a bit more unclear, especially the cutlet, which has a rather soggy breading covered by a thin slice of prosciutto and veiled (that's an understatement) in a heavy sauce of cream, parmesan, and pepper, a true holdover from the 1980s that requires a certain amount of boldness to attack. The beans with pork rinds are better—still keeping with the traditional rustic theme—the latter are tender and well-cooked, releasing just the right amount of collagen. The meatballs and stuffed zucchini are also decent, not enough to knock you off your seat, but they're definitely worth finishing.

To finish, there's the interesting zuppa inglese (trifle) in an unusual brick-shaped version, where the cream is quite firm but not at all unpleasant: I'm sure I've tasted something similar before, but the memory is lost in the mists of time. The gelato and a sort of local ricotta cheesecake with a raspberry topping aren't quite as satisfying.

Grandma Aurora's delicacies are a surefire success, thanks to the convivial warmth of the dining room, the familiar yet well-executed dishes, and the fair bill that invites you to return a second time. In my opinion, between the fried crescentine and the first courses, Nonna Aurora leaves many restaurants in the dust, so I encourage you to focus on those and you'll go home satisfied.

Opinion

This excellent trattoria just outside the city center offers truly memorable traditional Bolognese dishes, especially the excellent first courses and magnificent crescentine with cured meats and cheeses.

PRO

• Good value for money
• The first courses are excellent, especially the tortellini and tagliatelle.