Trattoria Il Mangiabuono in Genoa, review: substance defies form

Less is more, a wise man said. If there's quality, there's no need for frills, in short, as long as it's balanced in substance.

This sums up the philosophy of Mangiabuono, a small trattoria in Genoa's historic center whose very name reveals its motto: to serve good food. But without spending a fortune, we might add, oppressed by trattorias over 50 euros. And how can they achieve this, if not by cutting out everything that drives up prices, except—obviously—quality ingredients and a talented chef in the kitchen?

Environment and service

So let's make way for paper tablecloths and ultra-basic dishes. And away with the famous ingredients that would have limited space in the clever Ligurian cuisine, so skilled at giving grace to humble products.

Even the embellishments and the fawning, which take up time (and cause wrinkles), are kept to a minimum. Here, the innkeepers are innkeepers, and since they are Genoese innkeepers, you can't ignore that infamous roughness, which, however, quickly softens as soon as (and if) you tune into the local bittersweet humor. Driven by the pruning of the superfluous, even the sign has disappeared. But Mangiabuono is easily found (and only on foot) in Vico Vegetti, right on the corner of the main alley of the nightlife, the heterogeneous Via San Bernardo.

They're also cutting back on table service, so a single, capable and humorous waiter is all it takes to ensure prompt service and cutting jokes. There are only about twenty seats inside, in the two simple, welcoming rooms (with terrazzo floors, decorative tiles, and retro lamps), and a handful outside. There's no need to cut back on anything from here, because the view of the stunning 16th-century Piazza San Bernardo is free, thank goodness! Much could be said about the wonders of the historic center, but let's not digress and dash through the graffitied door to get back to business.

Menu and cuisine

We were saying: genuine and substantial Genoese cuisine. And yes, spoiler alert, the lack of formality is compensated for by quality substance. No appetizers, except for the ubiquitous Cantabrian anchovies, which we readily disdain, not adhering to the trend of turning to distant seas when a generous one is just a stone's throw away.

We then move on to the first courses, with masterful ravioli topped with a generous amount of flaked yet firm meat, balanced acidity, and (finally!) pronounced mushroom flavors, as per tradition; calamarata with tomatoes and fresh anchovies (these, yes, are local and indeed excellent); tortellini in brodo (not very Ligurian, but very well executed—thin pastry, flavorful filling, and invigorating broth); and tagliatelle verdi with a generous and juicy hare ragù.

A luxurious sausage and potato dish follows. We don't find Zena here either, but who cares: this imaginative woodcutter's comfort food can bring great joy, if well executed, and here it is. Our enthusiasm is dampened only by the somewhat meager portion, but we'll still long to dream of the savory crust of potatoes browned in pork fat.

The stockfish with potatoes, olives, and pine nuts melts in your mouth (my lady). The rabbit stew, also with pine nuts and Taggiasca olives, passes the stringiness test with flying colors: juicy, flavorful, it falls easily from the bones and is soothed by a creamy puree—the good ones, really good ones.

Only the top raises some eyebrows: technically flawless, but lacking that extra something to win our hearts. And the Russian salad on the side, to be picky, would have been perfect with a few more degrees.

Everything is homemade, "except the bread and the ice cream," they specify. The latter accompanies a simple, yet always delicious, chocolate cake. The zabaglione's alcoholic aggression might seem like a flaw, but it's actually a clever counterpoint to the buttery Brasadé, the crumbly Oltrepò donuts that accompany it.

Cellar and account

Unfortunately, the cellar doesn't offer bulk options, so you'll have to spend a little more. However, it does offer a carefully curated selection for all budgets (from €16 and up), featuring a selection of small French producers, from Burgundy to Champagne.

If that weren't enough, there's an additional "great wine list" available upon request, featuring around twenty prestigious Italian and French labels: a rather unusual choice for a trattoria, but nonetheless highly appreciated because it offers the opportunity to accompany quality cuisine with a high-level drink (but for a Chassagne Montrachet or a '96 Barolo Riserva, we hope the glasses are upgraded).

The bill, excluding drinks, came to around thirty euros, certainly well spent.

Opinion

A very Genoese trattoria, both in its approach and its content. While not among the historic ones (it only opened in 2006), it occupies a prominent place in the gastronomic landscape of the historic center, now overrun by tourist attractions. One of those "safe havens" where you can bring your foreign colleague or grandmother, or even friends, before a roaring Friday night in the alleyways.