Polvo Marisqueria, the sea of Rio de Janeiro on a plate
Monique Gabiatti's world—recently chosen as Revelation Chef at the Rio Show Gastronomy Awards—is a world of the sea. Born in the Northeast, facing the Atlantic, her father, an airplane pilot, took her all along Brazil's coasts, so her idea of gastronomy is one of sand between her toes and the sea breeze in the air.
The tide kept rising in his mind. And, without leaving Botafogo, he opened Polvo Marisqueria a few months ago. No longer hesitating, he passionately ventured into the Carioca seas, from Rio de Janeiro itself to Arraial and Cabo Frio, the state's fishing hubs. All his seafood comes from the Rio coast, without exception.
Influenced by Spanish cuisine—she's a fan of Quique Dacosta, among others—her gastronomic vision is, first, rigorous, with great sensitivity in the selection of ingredients and cooking times; and second, joyful, celebratory, eclectic, and informal. Seafood and fish leap across the table (without a tablecloth; a diorama of sand and shells) without etiquette, showing themselves as they are, clear and full, yet vibrant with her own personal flair.
The octopus salad, with alichella (an anchovy-based sauce), burrata, and tomato oil, is, with its impeccable texture, a dithyramb to the Mediterranean. It's the beginning of the voyage.
The raw scallop—from Arraial—sensual and elegant, is presented with rocoto mojo, spinach, and the fine lardo from Porco Alado, a renowned artisanal charcuterie in Rio. Alongside it are crab salad with avocado cream and tobiko, and tuna tartare (Brazilian style) with Japanese-style rice, a distant deconstruction of nigiri.
Monique also ages fish. Look at this olho de cão, with its tender flesh, delicately aged for seven days, seasoned with botarga de tainha made by the chef herself and sour cream.
The immersion in the blue of Rio continues with the perfectly cooked squid—from Cabo Frio—served with red bean hummus and Creole sauce, in a wheat flour tortilla taco. A treat, why not: mussels from Arraial (beautiful) Belgian-style, with cream and perfectly crispy fries.
The restaurant's metaphor is the great grilled snapper, impeccably cooked, prepared at the table and accompanied by hand-cut potatoes and broccoli, a piece that justifies the detour.
While we're at it... Creamy chocolate mousse with oil, salt and brioche croutons.
And the slow, soothing rhythm of the sea in the roar of Botafogo…
