Imre Rácz: Sommelier for continuous improvement

I was out there as a volunteer, I had the opportunity to meet and talk to many professionals. I think it is very important for people to continuously educate themselves and develop. Everyone benefits from these events as much as they want, as much as they can honestly do for themselves. I am constantly driven by curiosity, I like to see with my own eyes what changes are happening in the market and where the wine world is heading. The market is changing, and continuous learning is essential to keep up with the world.

What do you see as the factors currently shaping the wine market?

Awards and point systems are very powerful drivers of the wine market, both in terms of price and prestige. A ranking, or for example recognition from Decanter and other trade magazines, can increase the price of wines by up to 200%. Incidentally, these evaluations can also increase the prestige of Hungarian wines, as many domestic products perform exceptionally well and bring reliable quality at an international level.

There are more and more new countries entering the market, coming from non-classical wine-producing areas. What is driving these demands, and what changes do you see from a producer perspective, both nationally and internationally?

Previously, there was the new world – Argentina, Chile, New Zealand – whose players were seen as miracle workers by everyone. Now everyone sees them as stable players in the wine market with serious sales and stocks. We can find them in every European country. Now comes the 'new, new world', Germany, Poland, India, Japan, China, England, Denmark, and sooner or later production may even go further north. This change can be partly attributed to climate change. England is very strong in sparkling wines, it has similar soil to the Champagne regions – chalky, with a cooler climate. They are behind in history, they are not yet as prestigious as other countries, but they can catch up with them in quality very quickly. They are also going up in price, I think, for example, British sparkling wine will soon form an independent, special, stable category.

Behind wines and wineries, we can often find serious families, with stories that go back decades, even centuries. What are the chances of new countries entering the market? What is it about their products that can be attractive to wine consumers?

If we look at how many people live in these areas, we can see that Europe is not necessarily able to meet the needs there. If we take the Chinese as an example, in recent years they have mastered the knowledge that has been present in Europe for centuries. They are good at bundling goods, they have exported good winemakers to China, they have money, they have land. The interesting thing about the Japanese is that something similar happened with whiskey. They mastered the knowledge from the Irish and the Scots, and they are almost making better ones than them.

I tasted Chinese wine, very sterile, professional, uninvolved. But it lacks any tradition, story, identity – and consumers buy stories. Everything we spend on has significance, not just for wines, but for all products.

What is difficult to compete with is price – the events of recent years and inflation have had a big impact on purchasing habits. Also, in large areas, there is a lot of pressure on well-known brands, as they can never make a mistake.

How much have wine consumption habits changed in recent years? Are there any grape varieties that consumers have started to prefer?

In recent decades, full-bodied, high-alcohol, heavier wines have been given a big role, and the guiding principle was that the more expensive a product is, the better. However, my generation, and the ones after me, are looking for something completely different, lighter wines that are easier to understand. This is also due to the rise of white and red Burgundy, which are now very popular types. This change can also be attributed to the fact that areas like Bordeaux, which used to be stable, are now facing serious challenges.

Recently, a serious anti-wine lobby has made the situation of wineries more difficult, and alcohol-free items have also appeared on the market. As a sommelier, how do you see this situation, what are the root causes, and what can be done to preserve the prestige of wine?

This is a very sensitive topic and very complex. Many people are looking for alternatives, for example those who do not drink alcohol for health reasons, but at the same time want to experience the experience of toasting together. The market is responding to this demand, which is how these so-called non-alcoholic wines were created. Spago also has non-alcoholic items on the wine list, as we pay attention to ensuring that guests who do not drink alcohol for health or other reasons receive a quality alternative and can participate in the experience of drinking wine during their meal.

What I think is a misconception about this is that these products will lead to more responsible alcohol consumption. The problem with the current anti-wine lobby is that the world can only think in extremes. Wine is a story and a tradition – it has been with us for thousands of years, non-alcoholic items cannot override that in this way, and we cannot have these products compete in the same market. Non-alcoholic wine is not wine, even if it is made from grapes.

Regarding the lobby, I also think that everything should be consumed in moderation. If a person eats foie gras without stopping, it is not good for him. Consumers should be guided towards more responsible, higher-quality, more demanding alcohol consumption, to ensure that they do not buy poor-quality products, and to make more conscious decisions. Education and appropriate communication would be extremely important for the entire area.

What can wineries do about this?

Stability is extremely important for winemakers, whether it's classic or natural wines. Natural winemakers had a difficult start in the early years, with a higher chance of encountering defective products due to new processes and experimentation. Big brands are relatively stable and stand the test of time, but smaller wineries are often much more demanding of their products, even in terms of labels. The market will always decide which one is in greater demand, but no matter what, maintaining authenticity and prestige will be extremely important in all respects.

You recently updated the wine list at Spago. How is this process going, and what principles were used to add new items?

The duration of the compilation varies greatly, and it also depends on the wineries and suppliers as to when a given product that I want to put on the page is available. Spago's audience is very diverse, so the first consideration is that we can meet everyone's needs. Within this, it is exciting to find a balance between small and big names. The American line is important at Spago, but the presence of Hungarian items is also important. There are two paths for foreign guests: many say that while they are here in Hungary, they would like to taste Hungarian wine - in this case, the sommelier's responsibility is to find a wine that meets their needs in terms of price and value. If the guest asks for a foreign item, the big names usually don't need to be explained, but I talk a lot about the smaller houses, I like to recommend them. They come from a good area, in a good vintage, they are less expensive than the prestigious items, but you can find a real speciality among them. Burgundy is becoming increasingly popular as a wine region on the Hungarian market, and there is always a demand for chardonnay or pinot noir. We now have a special offer, the so-called Coravin, the essence of which is that we offer special items by the glass that can usually only be purchased by the glass. The festive period is particularly important for champagnes. Here too, there was a surge in smaller houses, but in the long run, the larger ones win. The non-alcoholic wine offering is also relatively new, and as I mentioned, we felt the need to include it on the menu. The task of a sommelier is not to show his own favorites on a wine list, but to have the knowledge to create a varied line that perfectly matches the profile of a given catering unit. This is a never-ending job.