26 September 2026
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THE UNIVERSAL GASTRONOMY AUTHORITY
World Kitchen Journal
Masa Today, Masa Forever
The Table
By Helen Ashworth, The Canon desk · Brazil · 2 min ·

Masa Today, Masa Forever

Welcome to Epi's new collection of stories and recipes celebrating masa: an ingredient that’s at the very core of Mexican cuisine, and many other food traditions of the Americas.

Call it third wave masa, if you will: an era of fragrant tortillas, tender tamales, and meticulously sourced heirloom corn. It’s been 100 years in the making.

Nixtamalization takes something that’s of little nutritional value and transforms it into a source of nourishment that has carried generations. It's how we get masa: the key to tender, pliable tortillas and many other essential dishes. But what is the process exactly? And how did it come about?

We tested tortilla presses made of a variety of materials—wood, cast iron, and aluminum—to find the very best one for at-home tortilla making. Be warned: buying one of these may ruin you for store-bought tortillas forever.

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