Apple Baking: A Chef Compares Charlotte, Tart Tatin, and Strudel and Dispels Myths About Them
The pre-revolutionary version was different—it was made with bread crumbs, sometimes even rye.
Piskunov's recipe is incredibly simple: about a kilogram of sliced apples is covered with a batter made from one cup of flour, one cup of sugar, and one cup of eggs. For a more flavorful twist, you can add currants, raisins, or nuts, and sprinkle streusel on top.
Tatin: beautiful, but requires experience
A French Tatin is a dessert for those who love caramel and aren't afraid of a challenge. The key is choosing the right apples. You need firm, sweet-and-tart varieties that won't fall apart when cooked. Early varieties like the white-ripening variety aren't suitable—they'll turn into mush.
But the main difficulty is not in the apples, but in the caramel.
The main secret is to not touch the caramel while it's cooking. You can only gently shake the pan. This requires some experience. Perhaps that's why the tatin hasn't become as popular as, say, the charlotte.
Vlad Piskunov, chef and author of books on the history of cooking
Shortcrust pastry is traditionally used for tatin, but puff pastry will also work. If you don't want to mess around with making your own, the chef recommends using store-bought unleavened dough—the result will still be excellent.
Strudel: It's all about balance
Strudel is Vienna's calling card. And it's not without its share of myths. For example, to make the perfect strudel, you need to graduate from a Vienna academy. The chef disagrees.
In reality, it's pure mechanics and the right flour with good gluten. But at its core, strudel is a dessert that's brilliant precisely because of its balance. A good strudel should have just enough dough to hold the filling.
The filling isn't just apples. Breadcrumbs fried in butter are a must: they absorb excess juice and prevent the dough from getting soggy. Raisins, nuts, and a drop of alcohol or cinnamon are also added for flavor.
A special warning from the chef: don't buy ready-made puff pastry to make a "quick strudel." You'll get a delicious layered pastry, but it won't be anything like a real strudel.
Briefly: What are the differences between the three desserts?
Which one to choose is a matter of taste. Charlotte is forgiving and perfect for a weeknight. Tatin will impress guests if you have a little experience. And strudel is for those who enjoy tinkering with dough and appreciate balance. Let's try it while apple season is in full swing.
