Where the Chefs Eat: Mario Carbone travels the world for these five restaurants – and one is so good he arrives 90 minutes early

The last time I walked into what is now Carbone London, on Grosvenor Square, it was the American Embassy – an imposing building that looms large over one of Central London’s leafiest and prettiest squares. Fast forward nearly 30 years and I’m back, but this time it’s to chat with Mario Carbone, the New York chef behind the 2025 opening.

The experience, I’m glad to say, is far less intimidating than when I was here to apply for a student visa in the ’90s. That isn’t to say Carbone isn’t formidable, though.

His Carbone in New York opened in 2013 to rave reviews and he’s since opened locations across the States and in Hong Kong, Doha and Riyadh, too. Described by The New York Times as “a fancy red-sauce joint”, he and his team have carved out an impressive corner in the highly competitive Italian American food market, and he is clearly not planning on stopping anytime soon. We meet in the corner of the enormous London location.

Carbone himself is immaculate in chef whites, not a hint of jet lag around his bright eyes. He spends half the year travelling, and he clearly has a militant work ethic. Based between New York and Miami, he was keen to open a British location from the get-go. “When New York was established,” he tells me, “we kind of assumed London would be the next smartest place to open, and we felt it had to be in Mayfair.

Eventually this became available, and we thought the fact that it was in the old American embassy building made for a great story. It had the 1960s, JFK vibes and it just worked.” The result is a stunning space that is light and breezy upstairs with an outdoor terrace and a theatrical downstairs area with a fabulous bar and Manhattan flair. The Italian food market in America is serious business with generations dominating in cities across the States.

Carbone admits that the first opening was, initially, “a little nerve-racking because there are so many well-established places that are 75 or 100 years old, serving amazing American Italian food. And they look and feel a lot like Carbone, but this is the food we grew up knowing and loving, and there can always be another great pizzeria, more bagels or another great Italian restaurant.

Now that we’re established, hopefully, we are the torchbearer of the next generation.” There was, he tells me, “Initial surprise that young owners were doing such an old nostalgic thing so well and I think I caught the industry by surprise.

The trend, 13 years ago, was fine dining and a very minimalist tasting menu. That’s what was in vogue then, and that was sort of what was expected of us, but we did the opposite of that, which caught everyone off guard.

My partner Rich [Torrisi] and I took our training, having worked with some amazing chefs, and applied it to this food. We took it to another level.”

I’m curious about Carbone's upbringing with food. He was born to a mother whose family hailed from Northern Italy, a father whose ancestors came from Sicily. “I grew up with food, and this is the only job I’ve ever had,” he says. “I started cooking in local restaurants when I was about 15 years old.

I wasn’t very good at anything else, to be frank with you." Later training came under the guidance of greats such as Daniel Boulud (“that was definitely the most difficult kitchen I’ve ever worked in, but I made some of the greatest friendships while I was there”). Travel is a huge part of Carbone’s life, even if it is under the guise of work, and he loves, by his own admission, “just being in restaurants.

I’d rather an incredible environment than amazing food, if I had to choose. It’s all about atmosphere because I can cook at home if I want to.

I’m very sensitive to music and light and the energy in the room. I can tell by the energy of a restaurant if it’s well run and organised.

I can always tell if a place is in a groove and, if they are really good at what they do, then it puts you at ease.” Apart from a second London opening next year, he is also working on new locations in Mexico City and in São Paulo “and I’m hoping to try and sign Tokyo but the brand, for sure, is going to continue to grow.” With that, Mario Carbone gives us five restaurants around the world he visits time and again as favourites.

Katz's Delicatessen, New York

Katz's is one of my favourite places in the world. I think one of the few places that really lives up to a huge reputation.

The food is delicious, and the execution is incredible. Although I always think about ordering something different, I really do, I get pastrami every time. They make so many great things, but it’s their signature thing, and it’s done unbelievably well.

Katz's has been operating since 1888, so it’s a real New York institution.

Joe's Stone Crab, Miami

I eat here probably once a week, either at the restaurant or by getting takeout. And I love it.

They are just great at what they do, and they also put you at ease, even though they’re incredibly busy. It’s such a well-oiled machine, and you know they’ve got it.

I rarely get the crab, even though that’s what they’re famous for. I eat my way through the menu, so I will get their famous chopped salad, and they have a great coconut shrimp appetiser.

I also get the blackened grouper or the fried chicken and, if it’s Sunday and I’m craving Chinese, they do a Chinese chicken dish. It’s orange chicken, and it’s not that it’s really good, but there isn’t a lot of Chinese in Miami, and it really scratches the itch.

Carbone in Miami is right behind Joe’s, so I’m there multiple times a month. If I’m dining in, I like to eat at the bar; it’s such a great, busy, bustling bar.

I like to watch them fill the orders because it’s chaos, but it’s so slick.

Mezzatorre Hotel, Ischia

There is the most incredible hotel in Ischia, in the Bay of Naples, called Mezzatorre.

They have this casual lunch restaurant by the pool, overlooking the sea, that is simple and perfect, and maybe my favourite place in the world. It’s unbelievable.

There’s one particular table that I always sit at, in the same chair, and I get there about an hour and a half before they open for lunch. I like being in restaurants, so I’m happy just watching them set up, catching up on emails and working.

I will sit there all the way through lunch, for up to six hours, and I smoke a cigar at the end; it’s just the best. They have exactly what you’d hope to eat in that environment, so lots of delicious salads, (they do a great chickpea salad) and this giant rigatoni with lobster.

They always have great specials, too. It’s just an unbelievable place.

Ho Lee Fook, Hong Kong

I absolutely love Hong Kong. It’s a great food city, but I wouldn’t recommend going any time when it’s warm because it gets so hot.

It’s so condensed and busy with traffic in the city, so it’s unbearable when it’s hot. When I’m there, and I’ve checked in at Carbone, I like to go out, and Ho Lee Fook is incredible.

It’s really well balanced, has super high execution and it’s familiar. I know them, so they take good care of us, and it’s one of those places I crave when I get into town. Everything from the music and the lighting to the food is great.

It’s all the things I try for at Carbone. I let them choose what to eat for me, and they know I’m pretty much down for anything, so I don’t generally order off the menu when I go, but I’d recommend it to everyone.

APL by Adam Perry Lang, Los Angeles

In Los Angeles, there is a genius of a human being called Adam Perry Lang who does a pop-up barbecue restaurant. He only does it on the weekend, and it’s called APL.

It’s outside of a bar called Gin Rummy in Marina del Rey. He’s there Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays; he takes the back patio over. They have these enormous smokers and he’s the most talented barbecue human being on the planet – there is no doubt about it.

He is incredible. I know him because he’s a very good chef; he’s classically trained (he worked for Daniel Boulud), and he’s been through a lot of the same doors I have. He’s brilliant, and it took me a while to get there the first time because I’m not in California often.

When I first went a few years back, it was just a life-changing experience. He’s great at traditional barbecue stuff like ribs and brisket, but he also has some untraditional things on the menu, so he can be smoking tuna or he’ll do whole Peking duck. He’s a master, and it’s fun because it’s literally in the backyard of a dive bar; it’s amazing.