Why do I sometimes taste butter in Chardonnay?

Why do I sometimes taste butter in Chardonnay? Is it sometimes added? Or does it perhaps come from the wood of the wine barrels? We asked our wine connoisseur and drinks expert Marlies Beckers.

Why do I sometimes taste butter in Chardonnay?

Let us clear up this misunderstanding right away: there is no butter in Chardonnay. The buttery taste you sometimes detect comes from malolactic fermentation. This is a second, natural fermentation that can take place after alcoholic fermentation, if the winemaker allows it.

Here's the thing. Grapes naturally contain various acids, including malic acid, a fresh and sharp acid reminiscent of green apple.

• A winemaker can decide to retain that flavor or to transform it into a full, creamy aroma through malolactic fermentation. In this process, lactic acid bacteria convert malic acid into softer lactic acid. Diacetyl is also produced as a byproduct, a natural aromatic compound reminiscent of butter, cream, or even popcorn.
• The winemaker can let the lactic acid bacteria naturally present in the wine do their work or add selected bacteria to ensure the process proceeds in a controlled manner.
• If he wants to preserve the fresh acidity, he prevents malolactic fermentation by cooling the wine or slowing down the process with sulfites. This is possible with almost all grapes, yet it is done primarily with Chardonnay, because this grape is naturally quite neutral.

Why don't all white wines taste like butter?

Malolactic fermentation gives the wine extra depth and softness, without overpowering its character. This happens less often with grapes such as Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling, because here you specifically want to preserve the fresh acidity and lively fruit aromas.

The buttery character, therefore, does not come from wood. However, after malolactic fermentation, Chardonnay is often aged in oak barrels because they impart aromas of vanilla, toast, or coconut. And that makes a lovely match with butter.

• Do you like a fresh, crisp Chardonnay? Then choose a wine without oak aging and without malolactic fermentation, such as many Chablis.
• Prefer a full, creamy style? Then you're in the right place with most oak-aged Chardonnays from Burgundy, California, or Australia, among others.