Good pizza starts with wheat

The quality of wheat is assessed through various tests that provide an accurate picture of its most important properties. These include, among others, the W-value, which indicates the strength of the flour made from it, and the protein content of the grain.

To what extent does the wheat itself determine the quality of the subsequent flour? What can be added to an excellent grain at the mill, and what can no longer be corrected?

The quality of the flour is fundamentally determined by the wheat used, which is why it is crucial for us to work with excellent raw materials. This is the basis of our unique processing technology, one of the important steps of which is washing the wheat: we use special equipment to remove impurities from the grains. This is followed by slow, low-temperature grinding, thanks to which the aromas, starch content and organoleptic properties of the wheat can be preserved as fully as possible.

Dallagiovanna works with wheat from different growing regions. What are the considerations when choosing each growing region and wheat variety, and how have these changed over the past decades?

The majority of the wheat we use comes from Italy. Over the years, we have built close relationships with our producers and suppliers, which allows us to work with consistently high-quality raw materials. The cooperation has now developed to the point where certain wheat varieties with characteristics that are particularly important to us are grown specifically for our needs.

One of the most unique technological features of Dallagiovanna is that the wheat is still washed with water after dry cleaning, a process that most modern mills have already abandoned.

The primary purpose of washing is to remove impurities from the wheat grains, but it also plays an important role in preparing them for milling. The process helps to more easily separate the different parts of the grain and prepare the wheat in the right condition for the milling process we use.

What exactly does washing change in wheat? Is it just about cleanliness, or does hydration also affect subsequent milling and ultimately the properties of the flour?

During washing, the endosperm of the wheat grain, or the interior of the seed, softens, so that the grain can be properly prepared for milling. It is then ground slowly, at a low temperature, to minimize stress on the grains and preserve the wheat's original aromas and organoleptic properties as fully as possible.

If it has such advantages, why has almost the entire industry abandoned this process? What are the disadvantages or costs of Molino Dallagiovanna continuing to use this technique?

Until the 1970s, washing wheat was a common and mandatory procedure in the milling industry. However, this involves additional costs and longer processing times, as the grain must also be allowed to rest after washing. Molino Dallagiovanna has nevertheless retained this technology, as we believe it significantly contributes to the quality of the finished flour. The required resting time varies depending on the type and quality of the wheat.

Can you tell if the finished flour is made from washed wheat? What makes the difference for chefs, bakers or pizza makers?

Yes, the difference is primarily noticeable during processing. Flour made from washed wheat is whiter, has a higher water absorption capacity, and is easier to work with. These properties are advantages for chefs, bakers, pastry chefs, and pizza makers in their daily work.

The consumer usually sees on a package of flour that it is type 0, 00 or maybe 1, but for a professional, there are many more parameters that matter. What are the properties that really determine what a flour is suitable for?

We produce a wide range of flours for different uses, including pizza and pasta. In each case, we start from the raw material: we grind the different wheat varieties separately, then combine the flours according to the desired properties and the needs of the specific application. This way, we can create exactly the characteristics that are needed for the given pasta or preparation technology.

How is a new flour born? Is it based on the needs of a chef or pizzaiolo, a gastronomic trend, or is a technological opportunity first discovered in the mill?

There are examples of each. Sometimes a specific customer need gives rise to a new product, other times a market trend or newly emerging use gives the idea for development. Sometimes we come up with something new ourselves. One example was Blackery, which is made from a mixture of wheat and cocoa and allows for the production of black products without the addition of dyes.

What does this mean for the mill itself? How much more complex is it today to produce dozens of professional flours with very different properties in consistent quality than a few general flour types?

This is a serious professional challenge, as in each case it is necessary to find a balance between the properties of the wheat and the expectations placed on the flour. This is helped by the fact that we grind the different wheat varieties separately and then use them to create flour recipes tailored to the specific purpose. This way, we can more precisely shape the properties of the finished flour and adapt more easily to different professional needs.

Is there a pizza trend in Europe that is already affecting the development directions of mills?

A significant part of the trends that define the world of pizza still originate from Italy, while eating pizza itself has increasingly become a gastronomic experience in its own right. The popularity of Neapolitan pizza remains unbroken, but the Roman style is also gaining more attention and spreading across Europe.

How much of a role does the flour itself play in the end result of a really good pizza? What can a great pizzaiolo add to a good flour, and what can't he compensate for if the ingredients aren't right?

Two things are essential: good quality flour and the expertise of the pizzaiolo. It is important to know exactly the properties of the flour and how to get the most out of it. After all, even the best raw material alone is not enough: proper knowledge and technique are needed to make a really good pizza from it.

Flour and grains in general have been receiving increasing attention in the discourse on healthy eating in recent years. How have consumer needs changed as a result? What do people look for in a flour today that was even less important ten or twenty years ago?

We produce a wide range of flours tailored to different needs: we offer higher fiber and gluten-free versions, as well as blends made with grains and seeds. In our developments, we strive to keep up with changing market needs, while offering professionals reliable, consistent quality flours that allow them to consistently achieve the same results without having to modify their recipes over and over again.

How does the quality of the grain appear in the nutritional and sensory properties of the finished product?

The quality of flour is determined both by the wheat itself and by the method of milling. The expertise of a miller is just as important in making excellent flour from the right raw materials as that of a baker or pizza maker in making the right dough from them. The two types of knowledge are closely linked and complement each other. It is also important to us that our flours are made exclusively from wheat, without any added additives.

What are the biggest challenges facing the European grain industry today? How difficult is it to procure the same quality wheat year after year?

Since we source most of our wheat from Italy, we are less affected by the difficulties in other regions of Europe. We have long-standing close, direct relationships with Italian producers and suppliers, which allows us to control our procurement and continuous supply with greater certainty.

Is the impact of climate change already being felt on the quality of wheat? Are the growing areas or varieties from which you can buy the desired quality changing?

We are not experiencing any serious problems yet, but we are seeing that farmers are gradually adapting to the effects of climate change and the changing production conditions.

Is it conceivable that in ten or twenty years, the flours we use to make pizza, bread, or pasta today will be made from completely different types of wheat?

New wheat varieties appear every year, and we continuously monitor their development. If a variety proves to be successful in practice and its properties meet our expectations, we examine how it can be integrated into the raw materials we use.

Has there been a situation in the company's history when you had to choose between traditional procedures and a more modern, efficient solution? What is the basis for deciding which traditions are worth preserving and where changes are needed?

Fortunately, we don’t have to choose, our philosophy is based on combining tradition and innovation. In this regard, I would like to return to the use of the wheat washer, as it preserves a traditional milling process while applying modern technology to it. Next year, we will also put two new wheat washers into operation, so we can continue to innovate without putting too much strain on our existing equipment. We want to introduce new systems and technologies while preserving the basic principles of traditional processing.

The Dallagiovanna family has been involved in grain since 1832, and after nearly two centuries, the business is still in family hands. What does it mean for the next generation of the family to carry on this legacy today? How much responsibility and what opportunities does it bring that each generation can add something new to the company's history?

It was clear to us from childhood that we would one day work in the family business. We inherited from our father the love of the profession and the passion with which he did his work. This, as well as the commitment to the family tradition, inspired us to continue what the generations before us had built.