Italian Cuisine Shines in Palatial Downtown D.C. Digs
D.C.’s always-adapting hospitality vet Ashok Bajaj banked on a downtown comeback this spring with the arrival of Rosselli. The corner space near Metro Center was long home to Modena, his modern Italian spot that flopped last year.
What to order
- Carlos Cardona, who most recently cooked at NOI by Paulo Airaudo in Hong Kong, tops a circular mound of Parker House focaccia with dollops of tomato gel ($10).
- A gorgeous private dining room shrouded in metal beads depicts a rolling Italian countryside, and I was told that its seven guests that night all ordered the rigatoni al forno with meatballs — so I did, too, and the bowl did not disappoint ($29).
- “Anything with risotto” is a star here, so my server said. The key ingredient is carnaroli, the prized Italian rice that makes for a creamy, velvety main with maitake, chive pesto, and 24-month Parm ($32).
- Hand-rolled and shipped straight from its Puglia birthplace, a sturdy orb of burrata sits alongside a salad of confit pear and aged balsamic ($22).
- Stalks of caramelized carrots with lemon, thyme, and olive oil are a must as far as sides go ($14).
What to drink
Cocktails swing on the savory side, and I loved my Cima Palon spritz — a bitter goblet of Alpine amaro and lambrusco finished with a sprig of rosemary.
The look
Lots of the alfresco artwork overseeing the dining room comes from Bajaj’s own collection. No redesign detail was spared – even in the bathrooms, which are surrounded by stitched burgundy leather walls.
Insider tip
Happy hour (4 to 6 p.m., Tuesday to Friday) is a nice time to enjoy the beautiful bar up front, where dishes like arancini and fried potato gnocchi are all discounted to $10.
