Summit with a Spanish flavor in Kyoto

The setting was the ballroom of The Ritz-Carlton hotel in the former imperial capital, managed by Carlos Tarrero from Bilbao. Forty guests were seated at the table, including some of Japan's most influential journalists and food critics, Spanish businesspeople in the country, institutional representatives, and international chefs of the caliber of René Redzepi, a five-time world's number one restaurant according to the 50 Best Restaurants list. The dinner was the grand finale to a Spanish culinary expedition to the Land of the Rising Sun that had exceeded all expectations.

After a stop in Tokyo to celebrate a massive Spain Fusion event—designed to help Spanish agri-food brands find distribution in the Asian country—the delegation, led by three of our most renowned chefs, arrived in Kyoto to participate in an 'Atelier' format version of Madrid Fusion Foods of Spain. This pioneering experience opens new avenues for promoting Spanish gastronomy, leveraging the global reach and influence of the Madrid summit. “What better way to boost the internationalization of Spanish gastronomy than through its flagship culinary event and with the help of our best chefs?” said Elisa Carbonell, CEO of ICEX (Spanish Institute for Foreign Trade).

Over the course of a single day, but with a high-level, concentrated program brimming with umami, this first edition was dedicated to exploring the fruitful relationship between two cultures "united by the pursuit of excellence, respect for tradition, a taste for fine dining, and progress rooted in tradition." The first to speak was Andoni Luis Aduriz, who reviewed the influence of Japanese gastronomy over Mugaritz's 27 seasons. Nearly three decades of frequent trips have given rise to iconic dishes such as a floral scarf made with kombucha fermented milk, a breast wrapped in muslin, fermented rice nigiri, and nori mille-feuille, to name just a few. "No one can say that Japan hasn't touched our hearts."

Quique Dacosta used his presentation to reflect on the artistic nature of cooking, drawing on the testimonies of philosophers, painters, art curators, and bullfighters, and relating them to his dishes. Creative, refined, and aesthetic, he seeks a beauty that clearly connects him to Japanese sensibility. Jordi Roca was in charge of serving dessert, accompanied by the new generation of the Roca family, his nephews Marc and Martí, sons of Joan and Josep respectively.

El Celler de Can Roca is an example of how one can reach the top while remaining true to one's roots and without losing one's family essence. Once again, a cultural connection with Japan emerged, as highlighted in a round table discussion moderated by Benjamín Lana. Three professionals who have developed their careers between the two countries were present: the chef of Chef's Table by Katshuito Inoue, the fine-dining restaurant at The Ritz Carlton Kyoto; Luca Fantin, the Italian chef trained in Spain and head of Bulgari in Tokyo; and Tae Iwami, a frequent collaborator of Eneko Atxa on his Japanese projects.

The chef of Azurmendi in Biscay also wanted to be present, albeit through a video in which he recalled his experience working with the chef of the legendary Kikunoi Honten restaurant in Kyoto. “He took me to meet his producers, and they were the ones who dictated what he should cook that season,” he remembered. An example that has helped him “grow as a chef.” Yoshihiro Narisawa, a familiar face at Madrid Fusion who reviewed his numerous appearances at the congress, and Katsuhito Inoue, trained in Spain and one of the rising stars of Japanese cuisine, acted as hosts for their Spanish colleagues.

Wine and oil

The program was enlivened by wine and olive oil. Master of Wine Fernando Mora offered not one, but two insightful tastings to showcase the current state of Spanish viticulture. An intriguing selection aimed to dispel common misconceptions about Spanish wine through delicate reds, mineral whites, and captivating sparkling wines—all examples of the diverse terroirs found in the country with the most vineyards in the world. The Japanese audience was also captivated by the masterclass on olive oil presented by gastronome Alfonso Fernández. His presentation was not only educational for the Japanese audience but also showcased the exceptional quality of the selected oils, sourced from Navarra, Cáceres, Almería, and Jaén.

This promises to be the first in a series of Atelier-style events that will bring Madrid Fusión to the hotspots of global gastronomy. The choice of the first venue is no coincidence. The Ritz-Carlton Kyoto hotel is an example of understated luxury, blending seamlessly with traditional Japanese architecture while incorporating all the amenities expected of an international emblem of luxury. “That balance between fidelity to an ancient culture and a determined vision for the future that governs Kyoto is a great example for the gastronomic sector to follow,” noted Benjamín Lana, CEO of Vocento Gastronomía and director of Madrid Fusión, at the event's opening.