05 October 2026
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World Kitchen Journal
Do we need critics?
The Table
By Helen Ashworth, The Canon desk · 10d ago · International · 4 min ·

Do we need critics?

Fernando Sáenz is one of the world's most prestigious ice cream makers, running the dellaSera ice cream parlor (Logroño) and the Grate workshop with his wife, Angelines González. That society is changing at a dizzying pace is as true as my dislike for tables without tablecloths.

Do we need critics?

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