Ishin’s “My Style” Omakase Arrives in Midtown’s Flashiest New Building
There is an intimacy when chef Fuyuhiko Ito beckons you to pick up chopped squid nigiri right out of his hand at Ishin, his golden-hued omakase restaurant in Midtown. The dish is delicate, immediately falling apart in your mouth, and Ito stands there, inspecting your face, relishing every nod and smile.
Ishin’s “My Style” Omakase Arrives in Midtown’s Flashiest New Building
At the rooftop omakase, chef Fuyuhiko Ito builds towering bites of toro and wagyu, framed by floor-to-ceiling views.
In the glitzy new Ten Twenty Spring building, Ishin sits on a rooftop, nestled beside Celestia, a cocktail lounge. Ito (formerly executive chef at Umi) and his wife, pastry chef Lisa Ito, own and run both places. They are gearing up to open a Japanese grill, Sozou, on the first floor.
What to order
- The omakase ($275) nigiri stacks layers of salinity and sharp acid. Think blended soy sauces, good pinches of salt, and caviar for salinity; ponzu skin and juice, ginger, and red vinegar for tartness, used liberally but not off-balance with the fish and rice.
- The toro (fatty tuna belly), piled ridiculously high with shaved white and black truffles and caviar is an example of exuberance in overabundance. The wagyu nigiri with garlic chips ends the show in decadence, though the akami (lean tuna) is a highlight in simplicity and finesse.
- Stick to wines by the glass as the restaurant works to beef up its beverage selection.
The vibe
Glass pendant lights shaped like large sun hats dangle from the ceiling above the chefs, and low-fi house music fills the room from the live DJ at Celestia. A breathtaking view of Midtown is the backdrop from the floor-to-ceiling windows; the sweet, smoky scent of torched red miso settles on the counter. Ishin is glamorous, reminiscent of bougie Design District Miami and Buckhead’s Umi. When asked if the omakase was traditional edomae or kaiseki-style, Ito responds, “It’s my style,” with a toothy smile. And it is.
Insider tip
Save room for dessert. Chef Lisa playfully nudges her husband aside to plate a deconstructed apple pie with frozen sugared cranberries. Before leaving, step onto the rooftop deck — Midtown looks mighty good at night.
