Yakumanka, 100,000 ceviches later
It might sound like heresy considering I also ate at Central and Maido, but it's the trays of ceviche on the lively terrace of this ceviche restaurant that I have the clearest memory of.
Considered one of the meccas of ceviche, the Peruvian capital is a bit too far to satisfy a sudden craving, and the Madrid location has no set opening date. Luckily, Yakumanka in Barcelona has been serving as an ambassador for Acurio's cuisine in the country for over six years.
The project has been led from the beginning by Alonso Ferraro, who is also a partner in the restaurant, and a year ago Tomás de la Paz joined as head chef. He is another veteran of Acurio Internacional, the brand that encompasses all 70 restaurants worldwide under the name of Peru's most internationally renowned chef.
Seasonal fish
A global pandemic and 100,000 ceviches later—that's the number they claim to have served at this restaurant since opening—the landscape of Peruvian cuisine in Barcelona has also changed considerably. Ceviche went from being something new and exotic to becoming a recurring dish on countless menus.
Classic ceviche, one of those dishes that never fails.
Once the hysteria subsided, it's reasonable to assume that the good ones remained, and the mediocre ones will eventually disappear, if they haven't already. The same goes for that Nikkei label, so often used to justify many unsubstantiated dishes. Fortunately, with anticuchos, those delicious skewers of beef heart and other cuts of meat, fewer people dared to jump on the Peruvian culinary bandwagon.
And throughout all this time, Yakumanka has been a haven for ceviche lovers, a word that, as is always good to remember, can be spelled with a "b" or a "v." And it still is, of course. The classic ceviche, or the mixed one (with octopus, seasonal fish, prawns, and crispy calamari), are always safe bets at this establishment and reason enough to return.
Tomás de la Paz is in charge of the kitchen at Yakumanka.
Good quality ingredients and a tasty leche de tigre, although, as is often the case, the spiciness is adjusted to local tastes and quite different from what's typical across the Atlantic. Both the ceviches and the tiraditos—the tuna tiradito with rocoto ponzu sauce is excellent, though a bit spicier here—are prepared to order right in front of you if you choose to sit at the bar.
Beyond ceviche
But reducing everything to ceviche and pisco sour—we're more into chilcano, actually—would be a very narrow view of Yakumanka. It defines itself as a ceviche restaurant, but it's clear it has always gone a step further. And not only because of a menu that includes wok stir-fries, grilled anticuchos, fish and vegetables, or the traditional ají de gallina, but also because of the display case of fish and seafood that greets visitors.
The fish of the day occupy a prominent place in the dining room of this ceviche restaurant.
Around these fish (we see redfish, scorpionfish, red porgy, turbot, gilthead bream, wrasse…) revolve not only the aforementioned tiraditos or ceviches, but also the selection of whole fish that can be served grilled or Nikkei-style: fried, with the bones transformed into a crispy morsel and the flesh prepared like Peruvian jelly, breaded in small pieces and accompanied by sauces. Simply place some chaufa rice nearby and you have a magnificent and abundant dish to share in the center of the table.
The influence of Tomás de la Paz—who trained under Gastón Acurio and also worked at Mugaritz, among others—is evident in this desire to push boundaries. Sea urchins, currently in season, are served with a scallop leche de tigre, creating a sensational, off-menu dish that will only be available as long as the product remains in the market.
Sea urchin with scallop tiger's milk, one of the off-menu seasonal dishes.
Octopus anticuchos and wontons—a fish tartare served on crispy tortillas with avocado mousse—are some of his signature dishes. He tells us that he's already working on new ways of preparing fish (using less water, different aging processes, etc.), as well as seafood charcuterie. And there are more projects from Gastón for Barcelona, although it's still too early to talk about them.
Whole fish, grilled or fried, served with sauces. One of this restaurant's signature dishes.
For now, Yakumanka has been able to maintain that popular spirit and lively atmosphere after more than six years – (Sundays are Creole day, explains the chef), knowing how to combine the proposal of a ceviche restaurant, with the classics of Peruvian cuisine and a product and service of a high level.
