A dream come true
When it was announced at last year's Michelin Guide gala in Barcelona that Noor had ascended to the pantheon of three stars, Paco Morales fulfilled a dream. Few chefs have been so obsessed with them. And few have deserved them so much.
Since settling in Madrid fifteen years ago after demonstrating his potential as head chef at Mugaritz, his journey has been a long one in pursuit of the highest recognition. First at Sanzone in Madrid, then at the Hotel Ferrero in Bocairent, and, after returning nine years ago to his native Córdoba, at Noor, where he has finally achieved his goal.
His achievement has been to create his own unique style of cuisine. Historical research conducted in collaboration with Rosa Tovar, documentary filmmakers, historians, and archaeologists allowed him to recover recipes and products from Andalusian cuisine, which he has been reproducing, century by century, in each season at the restaurant.
From these ingredients, without misusing them, he has created cutting-edge dishes. His has been an unparalleled culinary approach. Added to this challenge, in the early seasons, was the fact that he used nothing but products known on the Iberian Peninsula in the 13th and 14th centuries. No potatoes, tomatoes, peppers, beans…
It took courage to face the challenge, and Morales took it on. But it was difficult to endure so many years without those products, so his menus have evolved over time, culminating this season, which has just begun, in the 18th century, the era of the French Revolution.
With this, Morales has taken another step forward, without ever abandoning his initial philosophy. This year's menus are characterized by refinement, elegance, subtlety, aesthetics, flavor, and a great deal of hard work. From the open kitchen at the back of the dining room, he and his head chef, Paola Gualandi, directly oversee the tables and give constant instructions to the waiters when they aren't out themselves collecting glasses or presenting a dish.
The menu includes dishes that can be described as brilliant: the royal stew with egg yolk, bottarga and caviar; the grapefruit gelée with its escabeche, prawns and cheese snow; the oyster macerated in spinach with dates and pine nuts; or the warm salad of cured pigeon in tomato set levels that are hard to find in other restaurants.
Córdoba alone is always worth the trip, but if you include a meal at Noor you won't regret it.
