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World Kitchen Journal
In the 80s it was a humble fisherman's meal: today it is a gourmet delicacy of haute cuisine
Field & Sea
By Anna Keller, The Ingredients desk · 2h ago · Spain · 4 min ·

In the 80s it was a humble fisherman's meal: today it is a gourmet delicacy of haute cuisine

In Spain there is a wide variety of dishes, from simple recipes like gazpacho or Russian salad, to more elaborate ones like seafood rice that requires time and many ingredients.

When it comes to seafood, everyone knows cockles, octopus, prawns, or king prawns. But there's another product, just a few centimeters long, that can fetch almost 200 euros per kilo. And although it's considered gourmet today, for years it was a staple food for fishermen.

This is the seafood product that fishermen used to eat, and which today costs almost 200 euros per kilo.

The sea cucumber, also known as the espardeña, is an echinoderm consumed mainly in Mediterranean regions such as Catalonia, the Valencian Community, and the Balearic Islands. It is not a conventional shellfish, although it is used similarly in cooking due to its flavor and its presence in seafood dishes.

Only five internal muscle bands are used from this animal, and these are the parts that end up on the plate. They have a firm texture, similar to squid, and a flavor reminiscent of shellfish, with a certain intensity.

Sea cucumbers require prompt handling after being caught. Fishermen clean them right on the boat to extract the membranes in good condition. If this isn't done immediately, the flesh loses its firmness and becomes unusable in cooking. For years, it had no commercial value. It was common in fishermen's homes or in simple rice dishes, but it wasn't found in restaurants or fish markets.

Why have sea cucumbers gone from fishermen's food to gourmet product

The change came when some chefs started working with sea cucumbers in restaurants focused on the product. Their texture and how they behave in the kitchen sparked interest, and they began to include them on more specialized menus.

It is a scarce ingredient. It is neither farmed nor cultivated; its availability depends on fishing and daily supply. It is caught at depths of between 50 and 300 meters, which limits its presence in the market.

The yield of espadrilles is low because only a small portion of each plant is usable, so many plants are needed to obtain one kilogram of usable product. This factor directly influences the price.

There is also international demand. In Asian countries, sea cucumber has a long tradition and fetches high prices, which reduces the quantity available in Spain. Today, its price can range between 180 and 200 euros per kilo, depending on supply and the time of year.

How are sea cucumbers or sea cucumbers consumed in modern cuisine?

The most common way to prepare sea cucumbers is grilled. They are cooked with a little oil, garlic, and parsley, and require very little time. If overcooked, they lose their texture. They are also used in rice dishes and fideuà (a type of noodle paella). In these dishes, they are added at the end, taking advantage of the residual heat to avoid overcooking them.

In some cases, sea cucumbers can be found fried or breaded, although this is not the most common method as it alters their texture. They are also part of traditional recipes such as Valencian espardenyà, where they are combined with other ingredients like eel or potato.

Despite its presence in some restaurants, it remains an uncommon product. Its consumption is concentrated in specific areas, and its price makes it infrequent in everyday life.

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