Ali Clem, of La Barbecue in Austin, explains his high-fire, fast-burning barbecue.
Chef, owner and James Beard-recognized grill master, Ali Clem runs La Barbecue, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Austin.
Austin is home to some of the best barbecue restaurants in the world, and La Barbecue is one of the most celebrated destinations in the country. Its brisket, ribs, and commitment to quality are highly acclaimed.
Alongside his late wife, LeAnn Mueller, Ali helped transform a modest food truck into a Texas barbecue institution, keeping the Mueller family tradition alive. Before that, she started in the hospitality industry 27 years ago as a hostess and worked nearly every customer service position before moving to the kitchen.
After moving to Austin, he worked as a barista and in a busy bar. A year after arriving, he started working with John Mueller, a third-generation grill master, and that's when he knew barbecue was his calling.
Ali explains that consistency and mastery of the fire matter more than thermometers. He doesn't use thermometers for the beef breasts: he cooks by touch and sight, and he knows when the meat is ready for the next step.
His method is unconventional. He cooks at high heat and speed, instead of slow cooking at low temperatures, and has perfected a technique that gives the meat the flavor, texture, and appearance of something cooked for 12 hours or more.
His most famous dish is beef brisket, which is only handled three times: it's loaded, wrapped, and removed. He considers flank steak the most difficult cut to master because each piece is different, and smoked chicken, especially half a chicken with the skin on or the thighs, is one of the most underrated meats in barbecue.
For aspiring grill masters, the advice is to start with a cut you know well, master one technique before moving on to something more complex, and maintain a constant smoker temperature. Outside of restaurants, the most memorable dinner was at The Wolf's Tailor in Denver, chef Kelly Whitaker's two-Michelin-starred restaurant, with a tasting menu focused on dough.
La Barbecue will continue touring festivals, pop-up events, and restaurant collaborations in the United States and the United Kingdom. Its line of seasonings and sauces, already available at the bar, will soon be available in Austin-area supermarkets.
