In praise of the bitter: Alexina Anatole’s recipes for tahini panzanella and curried corn farinata
Bitterness has long had an image problem: is it delicious or disgusting?
- 500g large tomatoes eg, beef, oxheart or
- 1tsp flaky sea salt
- 0.5 small garlic clove
- 1tbsp sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar
- 1tbsp pomegranate molasses
- 1 small red onion peeled and very thinly sliced
- 0.5tbsp capers finely chopped, or nonpareilles, which are already petite enough
- 0.5tbsp sesame seeds lightly toasted
- Basil leaves to garnish
- 125g sourdough crusts on, torn into rough pieces
- 2tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 0.5tsp flaky sea salt
- 2tbsp tahini
- 1tbsp lemon juice
- 1tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
- 0.25tsp fine sea salt
- Heat the oven to 220C (220C fan)/425F/gas mark 7. Chop the tomatoes into haphazard, chunky pieces and put them in a colander set over a bowl.
- Toss with the flaky salt and leave to drain for 10-15 minutes.
- Meanwhile, spread the bread pieces on a baking tray, toss with the olive oil and salt, then bake for 10 minutes, until golden.
- In a bowl, grate the garlic into the tablespoon of sherry vinegar, to help take the edge off.
- Make the tahini dressing by whisking the tahini, lemon juice, olive oil and salt, then gradually add about two tablespoons of ice-cold water until the mix is the consistency of double cream (the amount of water will depend on the thickness of the tahini).
- Transfer the drained tomatoes to a serving bowl and stir in the pomegranate molasses, sliced red onion and capers.
- Add the sherry vinegar and garlic mix, and the croutons, and toss thoroughly.
- Stir through the tahini dressing, then leave for five to 10 minutes, so the croutons soften a little.
- Serve garnished with the toasted sesame seeds and basil leaves.
Tahini panzanella (pictured top)
500g large tomatoes, eg, beef, oxheart or monterosa 1 tsp flaky sea salt ½ small garlic clove 1 tbsp sherry vinegar, or red-wine vinegar
, peeled and very thinly sliced 1 tbsp pomegranate molasses 1 small red onion
For the tahini dressing 2 tbsp tahini 1 tbsp lemon juice 1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil ¼ tsp fine sea salt.
Heat the oven to 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7. Chop the tomatoes into haphazard, chunky pieces and put them in a colander set over a bowl. Toss with the flaky salt and leave to drain for 10–15 minutes.
Curried corn farinata with grapefruit dipping sauce
For the farinata 100g chickpea flour ½ tsp ground turmeric ½ tsp garlic powder/granules ½ tsp fine sea salt.
For the grapefruit dipping sauce 4 tbsp fresh red grapefruit juice (from about 1 grapefruit) 1 tbsp rice vinegar 1 tsp caster sugar 1 red chilli, finely chopped (seeds and all, if you like things spicy)
In a large jug, combine the chickpea flour, turmeric, garlic powder or granules and salt. Gradually whisk in 230ml cold water, ensuring there are no lumps, then leave to rest for 15 minutes.
Heat the oven to 230C (210C fan)/450F/gas 8. Roughly crush the cumin and coriander seeds, until broken up but not fully ground.
Make the dipping sauce by mixing all the ingredients in a small bowl.
Place a 20cm nonstick, ovenproof frying pan on a medium-high heat. Once hot, add three tablespoons of olive oil and leave to heat for a minute. Meanwhile, whisk the last tablespoon of oil into the batter.
Add the crushed spices to the pan, let them sizzle lightly in the oil for 30 seconds, then pour the batter into the centre – it should sizzle. Sprinkle over the corn and spring onions, then bake for 25 minutes, until golden and crisp around the edges. Remove, leave to sit for a minute, then turn out on to a board. Cut into wedges and serve at once with the dipping sauce and mint leaves.
- Alexina Anatole is the author of the Small Wins Substack and Sweet: the Secret to the Best Desserts, published by Square Peg at £27. To order a copy for £24.30, go to guardianbookshop.com.
