Restaurant Café De Snor in Antwerp

Once the headquarters of Antwerp's mustachioed club, the former De Konincklijke Snor café has been transformed into a charming bistro under the guidance of hospitality entrepreneurs Bart Huybrechts and Thomas Van de Weyer (also behind Hiro), who have given it a makeover with a few bistro artifacts unearthed from the Duvel Moortgat archives. However, their centerpiece comes from across the Channel: an imposing Thornhill stove, fueled exclusively by wood, on which butter melts and mashed potatoes are stirred to the sounds of the Foo Fighters. A few cubes of Gouda, some braised calf's liver, a generously topped tartine during the day, a Stella Artois on tap, and voilà, 't Eilandje of yesteryear is back, brought up to date with a modern twist. – Polly Fretter

Tasted that day: bitterballen with pork cheek and Antwerp triple; a double of fennel sausages smothered in puree, with meat juice on the side; or a piece of opal cod, spinach stoemp and poached egg – and the same fish in a pistol-shaped form for the kids.

Prices: starters €3-12, open-faced sandwich €8, main courses €20-24.