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World Kitchen Journal
Edulis, a bistro disguised as simple in Toronto, cooks with the elegance of yesteryear
The Table, The Glass & The Land
By Helen Ashworth, The Canon desk · 1d ago · Canada · 2 min ·

Edulis, a bistro disguised as simple in Toronto, cooks with the elegance of yesteryear

Their tasting menu eliminates the stress of choosing, and the table is the diner's to keep all evening.

This restaurant, disguised as a modest bistro, is like a journey back in time, and in a charming way. Its inspiration comes from a time before the rush of modern life, when the quality of a dish was measured by its flavor and by respect for the finest culinary traditions. The menu asks you to put your mobile phone away, and the table belongs to the diner for the entire evening.

The front-of-house staff, led by Philip Shaw, are warm and highly competent, making everything easier. The kitchen, headed by Michael Caballo and his wife, Tobey Nemeth, guarantees this. Their inspiration comes from the great traditional Michelin-starred restaurants of Spain and France, whose menus adorn the walls, and this collective experience has been distilled here with great success.

Even the simplest dishes are exquisite, such as the crusty red bread from Fife or the black truffle sandwich with St. Brigid Creamery butter. Impeccable seafood takes center stage in many dishes, like a prawn tartare with caviar, wild onion, and apple, served with miniature croutons that provide a contrasting texture.

The charcuterie, from rice black pudding to pâté in puff pastry, is exceptionally refined. The poultry is also stellar: chicken with yellow wine and truffle, and grilled pigeon with paprika. Among the fish dishes, the pike-perch and black truffle pie stands out.

The tasting menu avoids the stress of choosing, except for the extras, which are not to be missed, and the dessert, which is exceptional.

Edulis is a testament to the best of hospitality in Canada.

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