Traditional White Ragu with Mushrooms
This traditional white ragu pasta recipe is full of flavor! It uses a combination of ground meats, pancetta, and mushrooms, giving you a rich umami dish that is perfect to impress guests and family.
- 14 oz Rigatoni pasta (or other short pasta tubes)
- 2 oz Parmesan (grated)
- 7 oz ground pork
- 7 oz ground veal
- 3.5 oz pancetta (cut into small cubes)
- 1/2 glass white wine
- 3 sage leaves (chopped)
- 2 bay leaves
- 1 sprig Rosemary (chopped)
- 2 carrots (finely chopped)
- 2 stalks celery (finely chopped)
- 1 onion (peeled and finely chopped)
- 3 tbsp milk
- 2 cups beef or vegetable broth (I used homemade but you can also use a stock cube)
- 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- salt (for pasta and to taste)
- black pepper (to taste)
- 1.1 lbs mushrooms (wild or cultivated)
- 1 handful parsley (chopped)
- 1/2 glass white wine
- 2-3 garlic cloves (peeled and finely chopped)
- 2-3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
- In a frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Cook carrots, onion, celery, sage, and rosemary until softened.
- Add the ground pork, ground veal, and chopped pancetta. Let the meat brown well over high heat, stirring constantly.
- Add white wine and let the alcohol evaporate. Season with salt and pepper, add bay leaves and 2 ladles of hot stock. Simmer for about 1 hour, adding more stock as necessary.
- In a frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil and cook garlic until slightly softened. Add mushrooms, cook for 5-10 minutes. Add the white wine and turn up the heat until the alcohol evaporates. Reduce the heat, stir in parsley, and cook for 1-2 more minutes.
- Note: If the mushrooms seem dry, you can add some broth or pasta cooking water to them.
- Ten minutes before the meat ragu is finished, remove bay leaves and add milk then simmer over low heat. While the white ragu simmers, bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Once boiling, add salt and bring to the boil again.
- Cook the pasta al dente according to the instructions on the packet. Drain and mix with the white ragu sauce.
- Serve topped with mushrooms, garnished with parsley, and optionally grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano.
The white ragu.
Like sauces with tomatoes, there are many different versions of white ragu here in Italy. It’s popular in many parts of the country, especially Tuscany. White ragu is usually made with a mixture of different ground meat (I used veal and pork) plus sausage or pancetta (I used pancetta).
The taste of the white ragu is milder than a traditional red ragu. So, it’s perfect with both wild and cultivated mushrooms as it doesn’t obscure their flavor but makes the dish richer and heartier.
The pasta.
Both white ragu and mushroom sauces are often eaten with flat egg pasta ribbons like tagliatelle or pappardelle. However, I chose to use mezze rigatoni, meaning half size rigatoni.
The rigatoni I used was made by La Molisana, one of my favorites among the big pasta makers here in Italy! However, you can serve this sauce with either ribbons or short tubes such as penne or cut ziti.
The mushrooms.
I paired this white ragu with foraged chiodini (armillaria mellea). These mushrooms are found growing on or near hardwood trees. In English, they are better known as honey mushrooms. Honey mushrooms have a slightly sweet taste and a rich umami flavour. Many people say they are better than shiitake!
Pasta: Rigatoni is excellent for its ability to hold the sauce, but alternatives like tagliatelle, pappardelle, or penne also work well.
Mushrooms: I used foraged chiodini (honey mushrooms). You can use other wild mushrooms like porcini, or chanterelles or cultivated varieties such as cremini or shiitake are excellent choices.
Ground Meats: The blend of ground pork and veal adds richness to the ragu. For a simpler version, you can opt for just one type of ground meat or use another, like ground beef.
Pancetta: Adds a unique depth and saltiness to the ragu. If unavailable, you can substitute with bacon.
Vegetables: Carrots, celery, and onion form the classic 'soffrito' base, essential for a depth of flavor. Ensure they are finely chopped for a consistent texture in the sauce.
Herbs & Aromatics: Fresh sage, rosemary, and bay leaves are key for their aromatic contribution.
Wine: A good quality white wine is used to enhance both the ragu and mushrooms. It adds balance and depth to the dish.
Milk: A small amount of milk is added to the ragu to add richness.
Broth: Beef or vegetable broth contributes to the richness of the ragu. Homemade broth is best, but store-bought or a stock cube is a convenient alternative.
Expert Tips
Proper Mushroom Cleaning: To clean the mushrooms, lightly brush them with a soft brush or wipe them with a damp cloth. Mushrooms can absorb water quickly, which dilutes their flavor and alters their texture. If you must rinse them, do it quickly under running water and immediately pat them dry.
Mushroom Sautéing: Use a large sauté pan to cook the mushrooms. The ample space allows each mushroom to contact the pan's surface, preventing steaming and encouraging browning.
Cooking Pasta: Make sure to use a large pot of boiling, salted water for even cooking. The goal is to achieve 'al dente' - tender yet firm to the bite. Timing is key; refer to the pasta's package instructions, but start checking a few minutes before the recommended time, then in short intervals.
1) In a frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil. Cook carrots, onion, celery, sage, and rosemary until softened.
2) Add the ground pork, ground veal, and chopped pancetta. Let the meat brown well over high heat, stirring constantly.
3) Add white wine and let the alcohol evaporate. Season with salt and pepper, add bay leaves and 2 ladles of hot stock. Simmer for about 1 hour, adding more stock as necessary.
4) In a frying pan or skillet, heat olive oil and cook garlic until slightly softened. Add mushrooms, cook for 5-10 minutes. Add the white wine and turn up the heat until the alcohol evaporates. Reduce the heat, stir in parsley, and cook for 1-2 more minutes.
5) Ten minutes before the meat ragu is finished, remove bay leaves and add milk then simmer over low heat. While the white ragu simmers, bring a large pot of water to a boil for the pasta. Once boiling, add salt and bring to the boil again.
6) Cook the pasta al dente according to the instructions on the packet. Drain and mix with the white ragu sauce.
7) Serve topped with mushrooms, garnished with parsley, and optionally grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Grana Padano.
