Pepe Solla lights up “La Taberna”: embers, wine and Galician soul with its own identity
In the history of restaurants that leave their mark, there are turning points that aren't announced with fanfare, but with purpose.
Located in a former hall adjacent to the fine-dining restaurant, La Taberna is a project with a life of its own, where wine doesn't just accompany the meal, but takes center stage; and where the kitchen ignites around the warmth of a lareira, the traditional Galician hearth that in other times was the heart of life in homes. “In Galicia, the lareira was much more than a place to cook. It was where everything happened. Where people talked, listened, and shared. I wanted to restore that role, but in a new space, with the soul of a tavern and a contemporary vision,” explains Solla.
The concept isn't a second version of Casa Solla. Nor is it a "casual restaurant." It's something else entirely. It's a place where wine reigns supreme, and the cuisine—cooked over an open fire with flavorful and honest recipes—adapts to that rhythm. A cuisine that doesn't seek to surprise, but rather to comfort. "We could have done something more ambitious, but we prefer that the luxury lies in the essentials: the product, the hospitality, the ambiance, the moments," says the chef.
Embers, a glass in hand, and memories on the plate
At La Taberna, fire isn't just a decorative element: it's the primary tool. From the hearth, around which the space is organized, dishes are prepared that draw on tradition and are reinterpreted with modern knowledge. The menu is short, flexible, and dynamic, and might include a Galician empanada with homemade dough and seasonal ingredients, white asparagus when in season, seafood salad, decadent flans… and a few other dishes that change almost daily.
“We wanted to recapture the essence. To make tavern cuisine without pretense, but with all the knowledge we have today about the product, cooking times, and respect for the environment,” explains Solla. The idea, like everything else in this project, developed gradually, driven by dialogue. Alongside him is his sommelier and partner, Gabriel Vázquez “Gabo,” with whom he has created a wine list that draws from one of the most valuable wine cellars in the country.
A living, shared winery
For over two decades, Pepe has been buying, storing, and studying wines from Galicia, Spain, and around the world. This exceptional collection is now also open to the public at La Taberna. “We wanted to share this part of our lives, which is so personal and emotional. To give wine center stage, without forced pairings, without strict rules, just enjoying it well. With calm and freedom.”
To that foundation are added the new discoveries they make together with Gabo. The selection is constantly evolving and engages with the culinary offerings without being dictated to by them. “Here, the wine doesn’t accompany the food; rather, the food accompanies the wine,” the chef summarizes.
Sound, surroundings, and a table that invites you to stay.
The space's design reflects the harmony between the food and the wine. Noble materials, such as Galician granite, iron, and oak treated with the ancient Japanese Shou Sugi Ban technique, create a warm and inviting atmosphere. The lighting changes throughout the day, and at its center is a chef's table where the food is prepared and where diners interact. The service is friendly and relaxed, designed for leisurely enjoyment.
And as the third major pillar of the project, music. Not as background noise, but as an active part of the experience. A record player, integrated next to the kitchen, allows customers to choose the vinyl they want to listen to. Pepe Solla's personal collection—varied, nostalgic, and surprising—plays every day, from jazz and rock classics to gems of Spanish music from other decades.
Pepe Solla insists that La Taberna is not a more casual alternative to Casa Solla. “It’s not a plan B. It’s a plan A with its own identity. We haven’t changed prices or formats to attract a different clientele. We simply wanted to create a place where we ourselves would enjoy being, drinking, cooking, and listening to music. A space born from pure enjoyment.” And it shows. From the first drink to the last bite.
The bar is open the same days and offers the same services as the fine-dining restaurant. Reservations aren't required, but they are highly recommended, as seating is very limited. Here, there are no shifts or rushing, just long after-dinner conversations and lively grills.
La Taberna is, ultimately, a return to its roots with a contemporary perspective. A place where time stands still, wine guides, and the fire tells stories. Pepe Solla's latest reinvention isn't a break with tradition, but rather a coherent evolution of what has always been: respect for the product, love for the craft, and a desire to keep creating without losing its soul.
Av. Sineiro, 7, 36005 Poio, Pontevedra.
