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THE UNIVERSAL GASTRONOMY AUTHORITY
World Kitchen Journal
24 Hours. 12 Stops. $150
The Table
By Helen Ashworth, The Canon desk · United States · 5 min ·

24 Hours. 12 Stops. $150

Six years ago, inspired by an Edgar Allan Poe story called “The Man of the Crowd,” about a guy compelled to seek out crowds every minute of the day, I did a piece about where to eat great inexpensive food on a 24-hour cycle.

24 Hours. 12 Stops. $150 — Or Less.

Recommendations around the city for snacks and meals.

What better way to start the day than at a diner? This one is lodged in an old wood-framed house just off Washington Square, and its fluffy french toast is superb, especially paired with plump sausages ($16). Afterward, take a turn around the park, stopping to admire the Stanford White arch. 150 W. Fourth Street, near Sixth Avenue, Greenwich Village.

10 a.m. at Bagels & Co.

In a recent bagel contest, I selected Bagels & Co. as the best on the Upper West Side. Pick the plain bagel with a schmear of plain cream cheese (about $5). When bagels are this good, you don’t need it to be toasted or dressed with flavored cream cheeses. 391 Amsterdam, near 79th Street, Upper West Side.

Noon at Cafe Massawa

One of only a few Eritrean restaurants in town, Cafe Massawa offers the lunch special vegan sampler, which includes four vegetable dishes and unlimited injera ($26): But, keeping our budget in mind, why not try a tibs quesadilla ($15)? This fusion dish features a flour tortilla wrapped around melted cheese and oniony shrimp tibs. Sit outside with a view of Broadway as the 1 train clatters by overhead. 3153 Broadway, near Tiemann Place, Morningside Heights.

2 p.m. at Sunnyside Pizza

Neighborhood pizzerias remain one of the best sources of cheap eats, and if you’re like me, you can wolf down a slice any time of the day. Try this one: A Buffalo chicken slice ($6) that also sports a squiggle of sauce and some pungent onions. A wonderful sprinkling of toasty sesame seeds top it off. 4001 Queens Boulevard at 40th Street, Sunnyside.

4 p.m. at Golden Mall

When you’ve gobbled your slice, hop on the 7 train to its eastern terminus, and cruise down Main Street to Flushing’s resurrected Golden Mall to snack on brochettes; Macao-style custard pies; or — and this is my recommendation — a chive pocket from Yoz Shanghai, flaky and filled with fresh green onion ($4). 41-28 Main Street, at 41st Road, Flushing.

6 p.m. at Dog Day Afternoon

Let’s adjust our geographic sights for a moment and concentrate on Chicago. There’s nothing better than an early cheap supper at Dog Day Afternoon, commemorating a 1975 Al Pacino film shot in the neighborhood. The Chicago-style hot dog ($8) — with a whole catalog of toppings, including pickles, tomatoes, peppers, etc. — is the thing to get. Afterward, a stroll in nearby Prospect Park might be in order. 266 Prospect Park West, near Prospect Avenue, Windsor Terrace.

8 p.m. at Urgut Tandir Express

Are you ready to eat a second dinner, bigger than the first? Head to Brooklyn’s Kensington to Urgut Tandir Express, an Uzbek counter-service spot. Here, we’re ordering the national dish, plov ($13), which features mutton, chickpeas, and a rather delicate julienne of carrots over rice, speckled with cumin seed. 3915 86th Street, near Ocean Parkway, Kensington.

10 p.m. at Veselka

Time to move on to Manhattan’s hopping East Village, where you can sit outside at the iconic Ukrainian cafe, Veselka, and admire the passing parade of punks, hippies, clubsters and more. If the evening is warm, why not cool off with a cup of cold Ukrainian borscht ($6)? 144 Second Avenue, at Ninth Street, East Village.

Midnight at Rosetta Pizza

Rosetta is open until 1:30 a.m. every night, filled with customers to the bitter end, both inside and at the outdoor tables. The beguiling range of slices offered behind the glass is more exciting than the usual neighborhood pizza joint. My favorite is a cheese-free and meatless selection ($6) that showcases several varieties of olives flavored with onion and basil. It will delight your taste buds without weighing down your stomach — because we have lots more eating to do. 304 W. 14th Street, near Eighth Avenue, West Village.

2 a.m. at Dim Sum Palace

It’s about time we headed to Chinatown, once a bastion of late-nights eats, though the pickings are now slim at this hour. Newcomer Dim Sum Palace stays open until 3 a.m., so arriving at 2 a.m. allows plenty of time to enjoy a plate or two of dim sum ($6.50). 27 Division Street, near Catherine Street, Chinatown.

4 a.m. at York Grill and Juice Bar

There aren’t too many 24-hour delis that also have a relatively ambitious menu prepared to order. At York Grill and Juice Bar, choose from a lengthy one that includes burgers, bowls, salads, wraps, toasted sandwiches, and burritos. From the last category comes this hash brown burrito ($8.50), which also contains three eggs, pickled jalapenos, avocado, and melted cheese. Grab a glass of fresh-squeezed OJ to go with it. 419 E. 70th Street, just east of First Avenue, Upper East Side.

6 a.m. at Remedy Diner

What could be better than ending our binge where it began — at a diner? At Remedy, let’s finish off with a piece of pie from a list that often contains 10 or so. I’d go for the banana cream ($6.50), but the cherry is good, too. 245 East Houston Street, at Norfolk Street, Lower East Side.

Key facts
  • Who: Main Street
  • Money: $10 · $20 · $100, · $150

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