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Alma, in Montreal: modern Mexican cuisine with ingredients from Quebec
The Kitchen
By Jean-Luc Moreau, the Technique desk · 1d ago · Canada · 2 min ·

Alma, in Montreal: modern Mexican cuisine with ingredients from Quebec

Juan López Luna combines modern Mexican cuisine with seasonal ingredients from Quebec, and sommelier Lindsay Brennan curates a natural wine list.

López Luna's approach is rooted in tradition, yet embraces innovation: he intertwines his Tlaxcalan heritage with local products and, in the process, challenges the very notion of Mexican cuisine. The wine list, curated by Catalan-inspired sommelier Lindsay Brennan, draws inspiration from Catalan wines.

The nine-course tasting menu, inspired by the concept of surf and turf, changes monthly, with a five-course option offering a preview. The sea bream crudo is a signature dish, prepared with hibiscus, ancho chili, tamarind, and avocado, and finished with Catalan olive oil from Celler Frisach.

Seasonal offerings include a blue corn tostada with albacore tuna, green pipián sauce, and fresh mint, and a whole shrimp taco on a house-made nixtamalized yellow corn tortilla with chipotle cream. The kitchen grinds fresh masa daily from heirloom Mexican corn varieties.

The wine list focuses on natural wines and highlights the Spanish producers with whom Brennan works directly through his import agency, Vin I Vida.

Soft lighting, a long brick wall, and a lively yet intimate atmosphere create a warm and inviting space. Alma is located in a quiet corner of Montreal, but its reputation extends far beyond its borders.

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